It often seems to take several wearings before it becomes second nature to choose a shirt and necktie that is a good complement to a new suit, particularly when the suit in question is not one of the standard colors. In the photo a navy dot bow tie is paired with an ivory shirt and a tan herringbone suit with red undertones but the combination did not make it out of the house. There was too much contrast - a tie with a mid-blue ground blended better.
A man tends to notice little things about suits after the tailor leaves town, and in this case there's a slight pull at the center button that is more evident in the photo than it is in reality. But that will get cleaned up when I next see him again this coming summer.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Trying Things Out
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
18 comments:
Oh dear! Patch pockets old chap; do you think that's wise? Not an English tailor surely?
Yes, it was a Row tailor. Patch pockets are the only alternative for a hot weather suits with a quarter or buggy lining as there is nothing inside the jacket to hang conventional pockets on.
When I first looked at the picture, my reaction was, "I think Will may have missed on this one." Then I read the post and was happy to see we reached the same conclusion. Perhaps, I'm actually learning something.
Well stap my vitals, who'd have thought it? Never have caught the old man in patch pockets (except on the Norfolk of course).
Hi Will,
I have to complement you on your choice of colour and patched pockets.
I have a suit that goes in a similar direction: Tan (tending toward olive), with patched flapped pockets and two patched breast pockets (no flaps). It has four buttons and is cut square at the bottom (like your norfolk).
My tailor liked it so much that he refused delivery for about 2 months extra, since he wanted to take it "on the road".
I feel the patched pockets, making the suit much less formal, is actually a virtue in a world where casual clothing is so common. With the style I described, it's a nod at the business suit, while also going a less formal route.
I wish you would write a little more often about the more casual choices a well dressed man has. There is such a plethora of options to choose from, that it's sad to see the either/or of "business suit" vs. "shorts and t-shirt".
I'm afraid I'm with Dick on this one not being a fan of the patch pocket but isn’t it extraordinary how ones individuality shines through the constraints of what one wears: here you are buying English cloth cut by English tailors and donning English shoes, ties, shirts etc. and yet far from aping the English gentleman, every ounce of your being shouts I’m an American, I’m an American. Well done.
Phil et al.
I like the formal-dandified continuum approach presented by N. Antongiavanni in his book, The Suit.
Using Will's last two posts as inspiration, two examples:
- A business suit worn with a tie would be more formal than the same suit worn with a bow tie; however, I do not regard the latter as being casual.
- A mustard linen suit with patch pockets is more dandified than formal, and a civil way of spending one's time in the sun.
I love the coördination and the effect of the Solaro itself, but must admit I am puzzled by the fact that you're not showing any linen. In this picture the sleeves seem longish - are they?
I had the same reaction to the photo Kenji however the sleeves are cut to show 3/8" of linen, and it was in sight when I checked a mirror. The downward angle of the shot may have kept the linen hidden.
The jacket has a structured look to it in the photo. If A&S makes the softest "drape" style and some other English tailor the most structured, where on that scale would you say this jacket falls?
I often think people on this blog give you a pass when I'm not so sure about the fit or color, which while still looking good has room for improvement. This time, I have to say you deserve more accolades... the color, cut and drape of the suit is very nice and the accompanying tie and shirt are outstanding. This look is exquisite.
Scott, this jacket is closer to the structured end. It's not soft tailoring and there's no Scholte style excess cloth in the shoulders.
Will, I like your original combination. That's a beautful bow, wonderfully tied! However, white spots on navy is for me on the more formal end of the spectrum, and it is perhaps that tone I find more at odds with patch pockets and the suit fabric than color and pattern. I'm sure the medium blue is perfect.
I think your suit is very handsome, minor quible not withstanding. I like the patch pockets with this fabric as a design element, though I understand its construction requires them.
I'm very pleased you seem to get better results from your English tailors than most any I see, avoiding the RTW extremes that have crept even into bespok.
This beautiful suit is begging for some madder so loudly I can hear it half a continent away. :) Perhaps something along these lines?
http://www.jpressonline.com/neckwear_bowties_detail.php?ix=58
LOVE this suit on you.
Reminds me of a suit I owned forty+ years ago
from the Brooks Bros. University Shop:
herringbone w/patch/flap pockets-The
epitome of undergraduate "Ivy League".
My only quibble with your suit is its'
place toward the structured end of the
the continuum. I prefer a softer coat,
especially with herringbone. But then,
even my tux is "soft".
Solar and patch & flap pockets work beautifully: very colonial. Excellent idea, Will.
I've half promised myself to do a Solaro if and when I get tenure. There's something very professorial about it.
And another thing. A question, actually. Perhaps it's just an optical illusion from the picture, but this suit coat/jacket seems particularly long. As we all know, for a man of average proportions the coat skirt should extend roughly to the end of his thumb (I'll ignore the current fashion for much shorter, ridiculous-looking coats). Yours seems a good couple of inches longer. If that is the case, may I ask what is the reason of this choice?
Enzo, jacket length has nothing to do with the hands. A jacket should extend to the bottom of the buttocks.
Post a Comment