Monday, March 9, 2009

Tweed Takes Form

Photo: Steed's View

Mr. Edwin Deboise, principal of Steed Bespoke Tailors, began publishing a blog titled Steed's View not too long ago. He and Thomas Mahon were partners for a number of years after leaving Anderson & Sheppard, and both men base their operations in England's Lake District today.

All that is a long winded way of introducing Mr. Deboise's version of the London Lounge Best of Both limited edition tweed made into a classic three button suit.

Very nice Mr. Deboise, and I look forward to reading your blog.

16 comments:

F. Rosin said...

Beautiful! Just wonderful!
I want it :)

Harbinger said...

You said of the photo of Prince Charles: "and the jacket sleeves are at least an inch too short. They are way above his wristbone." Would you not say the same was true of this picture?

Will said...

I would Harbinger however I am told that the suit is modeled by Mr. DeBoise's son rather than the man for whom it was made so an allowance is in order.

Harbinger said...

If you were allowing someone to taste a wine you were anxious to sell, you would ensure, would you not, that it was not corked?

Will said...

This situation is more analagous to barrel tasting.

Harbinger said...

Barrel or bottle, the principal of showing your finest product in the very best light still applies does it not?

Will said...

I don't think anyone is anxious to sell in this case, and we would gain nothing if that same suit were pinned to a tailor's dummy.

One of the challenges tailors have is that few customers are willing to model their clothes for the tailor's benefit. And pinning things to a dummy gives us no way to tell scoundrels who can't sew apart from legitmate artists. On the internet, no-one can otherwise tell.

Alessandro said...

However, if you examine the fabric pattern closely on both sleeves it will clearly appear that the right sleeve (the left one for the viewer) is significantly shorter...

Tim said...

Lovely tweed. Is this the same cloth you showed us last week, Will?

Mr. Deboise has made a very handsome suit of it. I’d prefer a tad softer shoulder with slightly less padding, but I applaud Mr. Deboise’s achievement in creating beautiful balance and proportion and ignoring the current fashion for a comically high button stance.

Will said...

Yes it is Tim.

Will said...

Yes it is Tim.

dov said...

Beautiful fabric! However, as a tall slim man I've always felt that a 3-button makes my torso look too long. What is your feeling?

Will said...

I'm neither tall nor slim but for myself I prefer three roll 2.5 for suits that may be worn with vests, and three roll two when there is no vest.

Three roll top is angular to my eye.

Sinatra's Shadow said...

Will, in my experience, anything other than a three roll top is a very American style, and uncommon in the UK. Typically, I do not see three roll two or three roll 2.5 represented too often in English tailoring. What is your experience?

porter hovey said...

Wow! wow! wow! That's just perfection.

Will said...

Sinatra, Anderson & Sheppard and its spin-offs make a two button single breasted by default but, as you know, they are making for a largely American market.

 
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