Wednesday, April 29, 2009

The Shirtmaker Returns


When shirtmaker Joe Hemrajani was last in San Francisco in January, he had ample time to chat for an hour. It was a very enjoyable conversation but I would have liked to have seen more activity. By contrast, I visited Joe again yesterday for a scheduled appointment and there was a client already in the room. I brought two other men with me, and while we were there three others arrived. Best of all, everyone was ordering, so hopefully buyers are returning to a market that was too quiet three months ago. New at myTailor.com are David and John Anderson Cullinan Super 300 cottons that feel like fine silk. But though my friends were there for shirts, I came to talk about pajamas. I was concerned that standard shirting fabrics would be too light for the San Francisco climate and the way my spouse keeps the bedroom windows open no matter what the temperature. In response, Joe pulled out a book of 9 ounce/270 gram Italian linen that seemed a perfect weight and we were off to the races with two pair, in sand and french blue, for starters. They will be basic in style: camp collar and breast pocket on the tops, and elastic waisted bottoms with a button fly. Pajamas are priced at twice the cost of a shirt from the identical fabric.

Coincidentally, I arrived back at the office after that visit to find a box from Hemrajani with three shirts for the season. The photo's dark red gingham check with white collar and cuffs is the loud one of the bunch. White collars really open up darker shirt bodies, in my opinion. I do not believe I would wear that pattern with a self collar, but I expect it will be striking as it is.

13 comments:

Mr Brown said...

I have never been convinced by elasticated waists. They tend to made of nasty man made materials. Still, each to their own such is the benefit of bespoking.

For those in the UK I'd recommend Budd in Piccadilly Arcade. American readers need not worry Piccadilly Arcade runs from Piccadilly to Jermyn Street.

Tim said...

That's a wondeful shirt, Will. Enjoy it! Once had a red hairline stripe that was similar in effect, though perhaps a bit more muted, on which I received many compliments.

The Eccentric Orange Gentleman said...

Pockets on pajamas.... Never understood it. Need to store something while you sleep. I just find it a little funny.

Will said...

Perhaps you never wear pajamas to read before bed. The pocket holds a handkerchief and/or reading glasses.

Mr Brown said...

Pockets on shirts are something I have never understood.

Pockets on pajamas however; invaluable, nowhere else to store a handkerchief.

The Eccentric Orange Gentleman said...

Will,
Ok, fair enough.

Mr. Brown,
I use neither and I avoid pockets on both.

Todd said...

Will, is that a split yoke I see? And is the color fused? If it's not, it looks quite "neat" for an unfused collar.

Will said...

Todd, the collar is not supposed to be fused and I don't know how you could see the yoke from that photo. :-)

I am unable to examine the shirt as it's at the laundry.

Todd said...

I can see the yoke by looking through the opening in the top of shirt! Had it been a single yoke, one would not see the seam, rather a continuous piece of fabric, no?

The People's Business said...

I've just ordered my first suit from Joe (a basic dark gray, 2 button but with a peak lapel).

If I like it, there's a lot more work for them...

Evan Rose said...

Will, you may love your pajamas, but I guarantee that you will find yourself warmer wearing nothing to bed than you do wearing pajamas, no matter the temperature outside the bed (assuming you put as much attention and care into your bedding as you do your shirts).

Will said...

Evan, bedding won't accompany me to the coffeemaker in the mornings.

oldsarj said...

And that trip is the most important of the day!

 
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