A representative of New Jersey's Mel Gambert Custom-Bespoke Shirtmakers contacted me two weeks ago to pitch me on that company's made to measure shirts with to-attach collars. I had no previous experience with the company, but a call to a shirtmaker friend established that the 75 year old Gambert firm should be qualified to make anything I could think of in the way of shirts. So I decided to see whether they would put their skills to the test.
You see, for the past couple of years I have had a vague not-acted-upon idea that I would like a classic formal shirt, suitable for wear with white tie even though I would usually wear it with black. No doubt there are others but the only makers I know that definitely have the experience to make a shirt with a cotton pique besom front, link cuffs, a cotton voile shirt body and sleeves, and a proper to-attach wing collar are New York's Kabbaz Kelly and London's Budd. I thought that if Gambert would like to take the project on we might both enjoy the process.
When I asked the Gambert representative whether the company would be interested in working with me on this shirt I got an enthusiastic response, and that is the reason a friend and I found ourselves at a Gambert dealer, Gene Hiller Clothiers in Sausalito California, where Peter Domenici measured me for my shirt. 
To the extent there is risk in this project it most likely has to do with the shirt collar. A to-attach wing collar may be something the company may not have made for some time. The attached versions cannot be made as high or as stiff as they ought to be, and Gambert's regular wing collar offering looks typical of what I hope to avoid.
But we will know the outcome in about a month.
Friday, May 29, 2009
A Formal Shirt Project
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12 comments:
I have bought my wing collars from two sources: Luke Eyres, a classic and highly reputable company; and a recent find, vintageshirt.co.uk. The latter is the only place I can find a proper 2½″ collar, and I can assure you that the quality is good.
A real shirt and collar certainly attract attention. As a side note, most people have silly adjustable bow ties, which can only be worn with a turn-down collar. Make sure the strap at the back has no ugly buckle (excellent examples can be bought at your local Ede and Ravenscroft or ordered there online).
I hope you get what you wish. As you may know, there are two Gambert shirtmakerss in NJ, Mel and Skip, and each have direct antecedents with the original firm. Both do MTM, but I believe only Mel Gambert also does bespoke. I have used both, but as my most recent experience is more than 15 years old, it would be unfair for me to comment. But I will be very interested in learning how well pleased you are with your shirt.
I'd love to hear how this comes out. I had a similar shirt made by MyTailor, but without the voile body and sleeves (simply a light weight cotton). They of course didn't make the collar, I had to source that online from England, so it isn't necessarily made to measure, but it works OK.
I only have the tall wing collar. I am thinking of getting a turndown collar as well to add some versatility. Do you think that it would make the shirt more usable, or with the link cuffs, make it simply a mutt?
The first picture seems to show belt loops and braces.
I assume this is the photograph deceiving me and it is the edge of the closure.
Yes Mr. Brown, your eyes are deceived.
Mark, a turndown collar takes a pleated shirt front. Adding one to a besom front shirt would make a, as you put it, mutt.
Mark, exactly what is there to measure in a collar? There is no need to buy collars specially for your shirts either; just keep a general box of collars and wear with any appropriate shirt. Semi-formal shirts can have a stiffened marcella front, not just the pleated option (but not a smooth stiff front); so that front can certainly be worn with the same (wide-ish) turndown collars you wear in the day. Finally, of course turndown collars go with cufflinks (don't you see this every day?), but just not single cuffs.
OK. Can you explain further what you mean by a "besom" shirt front. Mine has a stiff pique bib and bottons in the front (not the very old back button variety).
Isn't the turndown collar with a pique front basically the go-to formalwear shirt in the UK these days?
I thought that a turndown collar could be used with either pleats or a plain front. This is the first time that I've heard that it can only be paired with pleats.
Also, Nicolas, my shirt take cuff links, it just doesn't have double cuffs.
Mark,
You have a besom front.
The pleated or marcella front shirt with turndown collar was the Duke of Windsor's successful attempt to make black tie more comfortable by removing the starch. That is one configuration. The other is a wing collar and pique front, which is also worn for white tie.
Fine venture, Will. I see where your shirt maker will use signature in lieu of initials or monogram. Might lose your sprezzatura there. Would not want that. [Your interesting post led to a detour into the definitions of dandy, fop, muscadin, and sans-culottes]. But you are obviously at home among The Courtiers of Castiglione. The ideal courtier: " ... skilled in arms and athletic events but equally skilled in music and dancing." Caio, CB
Will,
I'm planning to buy my first pair of barathea braces in the next couple of weeks. Are the ones you're wearing in the photo what Thurston calls "Crayon Blue?" I love them on you!
Crayon Blue sounds right. It's been a while.
Looking forward to it!
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