Tuesday, May 26, 2009

If I Could Have Only One Shoe

Photo: Vass

If I could have only one shoe, I would ask that it be a graceful cordovan colored oxford with a bit of brogueing, like the Vass Old English II model in the photograph. For the oxford is the best shoe for suits, and, in colors other than black, flexible enough to wear with odd jackets.

In place of black I find myself wearing cordovan (the color rather than the eponymous horse leather) much of the time. It has black overtones that are dark enough to be conservative while still leaving the eye something to interest it.

Style and color being settled, the amount of brogueing as the critical question. Too little and the shoe is boring. Too much is too casual a look. A line of punches across the toe and a bit of side decoration is just about right.

If I could have only one shoe...

26 comments:

ajbjasus said...

Nice choice Will but I'd go for a pair rather than just the one

dandiacal said...

I couldn't agree more Will. I just purchased a new pair of a similar model, off the peg, of course by Alden, as I can't go the full Gaziano bespoke right now. But that is the perfect color for a shoe - beats black every time except for evening formal, dinner suit etc. the latter requiring black.

Again, this is the best sartorial blog on the internet. cheers

MHampton

Nungesser said...

I'll pile on a as a third Will. The only change I'd make is to have a "U" throat. There is something about the look of Adelaides that I'd miss too much if that were my only pair of shoes.

Turling said...

Will,

If you could just have one shoe, wouldn't you have to hop around on one foot all day? Also, would you get the left or the right?

Will said...

Turling, ajbjasus beat you by more than two hours on that one. :-)

Nicolaus Nemeth said...

Personally, I'd tweak the shoe just a little. In terms of formality I'd go down in color, and up in model. My favorite shoes are by far my tan cap toe oxfords with only a line of brogueing across the toes. Supplement this with a black plain cap toe oxfords and those are the only two pairs of shoes I *really* need (for work/dressing). However, if I absolutely could choose only one pair I'd combine them into a punched cap toe in black.

Turling said...

That's what I get for dilly-dallying.

Andrew said...

Sorry if this is a silly questions, but when you say cordovan, do you mean cordovan leather or calf skin leather colored in cordovan/burgundy?

Andrew said...

duh, sorry about that.

Speedmaster said...

Probably Alden cordovan longwings for me.

M. Fan said...

*Ahem* One shoe, cordovan, broguing . . . sounds awful familiar to me, Will.

Just kidding. I ripped you off first. So, really, you're just being repetitive :).

Horatio said...

Great shoe, in both color and style.

Incidentally, what is your opinion on pinking on shoes?

Will said...

Pinking on shoes? Where would shoes be without it?

Will said...

Cordovan colored calf Andrew. First sentence of the second paragraph.

Ay329 said...

Vass won't do the Old English 2 with a U tip...they already nixxed this idea as the U tip brogueing runs into the side brogueing.

But this shoe would look nice on Vass' U last, in Oxblood leather, V tip front and a medallion with a HAF sole and steel eyelets for that vintage look.

The smell of Vass shoes made in Cordovan horse leather is much more pleasing than any other shoe makers Cordovan offerings

Mr Brown said...

One pair of shoes?

Black Oxfords.

The only shoe you need for work (in London) and therefore your ticket to your next pair (of something similar to those shown at the top).

Eustace said...

Completely agree - that model is a very versatile one. Though it would be even better, in my opinion, if there were no brouguing on the heel.

Minor point: that's my shoe you posted, not one from the Vass website.

Patrick Guanciale said...

Dark blue suit, with a pin stripe, cordovan punch toe show: Would you be wearing a cordovan color belt?

Will said...

Sorry about that Eustace. Give me the proper attribution and I'll correct it.

Youngin said...

Can I ask why you choose calf over cordovan?

Will said...

Calf takes a shine much better than cordovan.

roger said...

They are indeed very nice classic versatile shoes.
Nevertheless, I dissent from the consensus.
I guess I'm an eccentric, but I no longer own
any oxfords, don't like captoes, and I have a personal aversion to broguing, although I would permit it in' a few types of shoes.

For me the design that epitomizes my taste can bee seen below:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/
showthread.php?p=932860

A three eyelet derby from C & J. It would be even better in Will's color . I don't own these shoes. I have two have similar pairs from Ludwig Reiter
who are able to fit my wide feet.

Richard said...

Hear, hear, Mr Brown. One cannot wear Cordovan colour with Black Tie - that settles it for me. The obsession with burgundy in all its variations is typically American, and it is one of the great inventions America, especially Alden, has brought to the shoe world - and I admit to adopting it - but I would not go overboard.

George said...

Great blog Will...I read it every day for insight and guidance. I'm looking for a similar pair and found the Herring line of shoes while searching the internet. What is your impression of Herring shoes?

Regards,
George

doctorsewellOMD said...

Hi Will!
Great site. So glad I stumbled across it! A while back you posted an article entitled " Flannels and Cordovan." or something like it. In that post is a photo of a beautiful pair of Cordovan lace-up boots. Who made them? I live in south Florida where it rains frequently and would love to acquire a nice pair like you had in the photo. Thanks again!

Will said...

doctorsewell, those are ASW winter boots, a model made exclusively for A Suitable Wardrobe.

They are available made to order. Email me for more information.

 
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