Here is a first attempt at wearing a bright red gingham shirt with a suit, something that should probably be reserved for alpha males on their home ground. In the Jermyn Street tradition, the very loud check is paired with a conservative suit and necktie in what is here a not entirely satisfactory attempt to moderate its impact. Of course, that gingham is yelling at top volume.
The shirt body would probably be fine with a blazer, on blazer-appropriate occasions, but the formality of the white collar and turnback cuffs are better with a suit. I think I wll try it with a tan suit next.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
A Jermyn Street Look
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18 comments:
On the whole the only white collared shirt of this nature you'll see on Jermyn St, in Piccadilly and deff. the City are worn by tourists or owners of Harrods.
(Save perhaps solid blue & white).
If you want a bold shirt go for a strong gingham and plain knitted silk tie. Harvie & Hudson's butchers gingham is always a winner.
From an aesthetic standpoint at least, red gingham and tan make more sense -- here the navy suit makes the red pop even more since it's so dark, and a lighter neutral will highlight the red rather than inflame it. I'm curious to see how the tan suit looks when you try it!
I suggest a gray suit. Gray suit coats can de-fang both pink and purple shirts. I don't see why it should not work for red as well.
However, I'm not convinced of the shirt's pedigree. I associate the white collar with the USA rather than with Jermyn street. I don't remember seeing those in either T&A or H&K.
That is a very nice look. May I ask what pair of shoes you wore with that suit?
I know that white collars with colored shirt bodies originated in upstate New York and haven't crossed the Atlantic in any volume (though Turnbull has made me a couple dozen such shirts), but my comments were directed at the shirt body.
The shoes were espresso colored quarter brogues.
Hi Will,
It looks like your attempt to moderate the shirt's impact resulted in a high-contrast look. How about a tie in purple or having a note of red in it so that the contrast with the shirt is not so stark?
The tan suit you mentioned would lower the contrast as well.
I like the red shirt & navy shirt as well as the gray tie with the navy suit, but all three together does not work for me.
The British, while they may not favor contrasting white collars and French Cuffs, do love boldly checked shirts. I notice Charles Tyrwitt has a lot of these shirts. I have several of their solid toned shirts, and my only complaints are that the collars are quite hard/stiff and that they don't have a button on the opening above the cuff, which surprises me. However, they have shirts that make the one shown today look very mild; some look like they should be on a tablecloth. I just can't get used to these for dress shirts, especially when worn with a nice formal suit, but they like them in the U.K.
Hi Will:
I think the shirt and suit work, but the tie is off. wonder how it would look with a dot?
Will, the entire ensemble is splendid and beautiful. Who cares if it is or isn’t some other individual’s impression of current English fashion? (The less said the better for much of it.) Is that silver grenadine?
It's a gray grenadine. The silver was too flashy.
Will, I have just started reading your blog, largely as a result of the temporary (I hope) demise of the London Lounge. I have found it very enjoyable and will be a regular visitor from now on.
As for the shirt and suit combination in question a navy blue tie with a red spot would look very smart I think.
I'm not sure that (or any gingham) should be in a dress shirt.
I have an alarmingly bold red gingham shirt which has proved a trial to set off. It works best with a mid-grey or charcoal suit - I can't say it sits easily against blue worsted.
I never found anything but a solid crimson tie that could hold its own against the shirt without me looking mildly deranged. Oddly, I have much bolder gingham shirts in both purple and blue and they are easier to match effectively to suit and tie - it seems it's the colour, not the pattern, that blazes so.
Nonetheless, I'm envious of your white collar and red gingham; it has a certain raffish charm.
Yellow or gold tie?
Now that I have a moment more, I wanted to add that I find the cut of your jacket in this photo sublime.
In addition to this navy, and the tan suit aforementioned, this shirt would look very nice with a summer light gray composed of black and white, such as a sharkskin. This could be set off with a black grenadine or black silk knit, and a navy tie would work as well along with the same handsome PS. Though I’m not sure a silver gray suit would work that well with your coloring. Another possibility would be a very soft pale yellow, with a navy or tan suit.
In addition to solid ties, a subdued stripe in complementary colors of a single colored stripe on a solid ground should work well. And since I like to walk close to the precipice, I’d try to find a large-scale paisley of very muted inky complementary colors and wear it with your fine navy suit. But I think you have better taste! ;-)
The weakness of the tie makes the red shirt stand out more. A bolder tie, perhaps with a navy stripe, might balance the whole look. As it is, the attention is drawn to the gingham and to the weak character of the tie.
I'm in full agreement with those who think the tie in this ensemble should be changed, a tout de suite. I for one wouldn't wear anything but a solid (all right, perhaps grenadine) navy tie with this shirt. And for that matter, I can't say I care much for the shirt either.
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