A bit of colored silk in the breast pocket of a man's jacket is usually the step that indicates he has learned self-confidence in his dress. And the square itself is often the most beautiful item in his ensemble, though that beauty is a secret usually known only to the wearer since little of it shows. 
Of the styles of pocket squares available I like the patterned silk print the best, because it is the most flexible. It is also the most difficult to find apart from Hermes, as the economics of silk printing require longer runs than most sellers find practical. But the combination of a center in one color, edges in another, and patterns adding more interest provides considerable flexibility in the look. Even adherents of the 'cram it in and walk out the door' style see a different result from the same square on different days.
In the photos, an example from Mariano Rubinacci printed with images of Neapolitan ceramics.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
The Patterned Pocket Square
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7 comments:
This is a good post on the overlooked fancy silk square, Will.
I might just adjust the "Neo to a Nea" in the description of that exquisite bit of French deluxe.
Robert Talbott also makes wonderful patterned silk pocket squares, and I have gotten some beautiful ones also made by R Hanauer (bowties.com)
Will-
I am always a fan of having a pocket square. I must say, however, when worn in a more professional setting (especially as a law student-clerk), it tends to get frowns. Some see it as either too pretentious or simply too cavalier.
Personally, I believe it shows a sense of style. Nonetheless, I do tend to censor myself when I think I will wear one to the office.
Best,
Z
I think willowbend1720 touches on an interesting point.
A silk handkerchief can be very stylish, however I don't think the frown mentioned reflects disapproval of pretence or suspected cavalier attitude. Rather, a suspicion that a member of staff has assumed the uniform of a more senior rank.
I love Rubinacci's pocket squares, but would love to find other sources for high-quality squares with similarly baroque motifs and patterns. I suppose Hermes is the obvious alternative, but I find most of their contemporary squares too 'graphic' and loud. Also, the scenic, patterned squares that I have managed to find do not look as good as the Rubinacci ones; I believe most makers other than Hermes and Rubinacci use far fewer colors to print their patterns (8 or 9, as opposed to H. or R.'s 20-24).
Suggestions, Will?
Foo, I may have come across others over the years but I don't recall where. One needs to be very selective when it comes to Hermes and the Rubinacci patterns are usually better value.
This summer Drakes will be re-issuing the very nice wool prints it did for Holland & Holland years ago and I will be offering half a dozen colorways on my web site in August.
Mr. Brown-
I could not agree more. Unfortunately, as I am 25 and entering the private sector in D.C., I have about 20 years before I reach that "senior rank" (according to their standards). Nonetheless, it won't stop me from wearing them...well, maybe not all the time. I assume there will be some days when it is just better to put it in my side pocket for drinks after work at the Capitol Club.
Best,
Z
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