There are a lot of generalities tossed about regarding soft tailoring, and perhaps the principal one is that a soft jacket is more comfortable. As a man who owns examples from both styles I submit that soft tailoring has little to do with comfort - a well made structured jacket is as comfortable as its soft tailored counterpart. It is instead about the look and feel of the coat, which on a continuum of stiffness is a close cousin to a cardigan sweater.
That softness is achieved with a tailor-specific combination of hand stitched shoulders, lighter canvas and the use of a piece of wadding in the shoulder instead of a pad. The effect is the opposite of the more military Savile Row cut with its built up chest, nipped in waist and flared skirt, and the difference in structure is principally noticeable when the jacket is draped over an arm. A soft tailoring product hangs like a sweater. A structured jacket does not quite resist gravity's pull and remain horizontal, but it feels as though it would like to.
Compare the soft jacket in the top photo to the middle of the road coat below. The tweed looks as though it might stand on its own if there was no-one wearing it. The flannel looks as though it would collapse. 
Both soft and hard tailoring have their adherents with the soft crowd benefiting from the current trend towards informality and the appearance of comfort. But, as the wheel turns, both styles are likely to retain their adherents until the suit passes entirely into history.
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Soft Tailoring
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7 comments:
Love your blog!
Just one question: since all your jackets posted here are tailored, how come you don't like to show a bit more cuff? To me it seems like the arm length is just a tad too long.
They're both beautiful jackets, but still well chosen to illustrate your point. Must say though I would require a higher button stance than the jacket in the second photo.
RMN, most of my jackets are cut to show less than 1/2" of linen. When Photographed shooting down there's nothing to see.
Tim, it's hard to tell from the photo but that's a two button coat that is cut like a riding jacket. The button point is above the waist already.
A fascinating post. I was somewhat sobered by your last sentence but on reflection, I am sure you are right. The hat has all but vanished in quotidian dress, the tie seems to be disappearing with indecent haste; I suppose suits cannot have much time left. What depresses me is that these changes are not so much driven by utility (although that is certainly part of it) as timidity and laziness. I am sure many men consider ties a chore because they have to think about them, whilst suits (even the basic business two-piece)require a certain level of care and attention. How much easier, how much safer, (so conventional thinking seems to have it)to slop around in casual clothes.
Hello Will. I realize this is an older post, but I was wondering: The striped blue flannel: It seems to have drape about the shoulders. Is this from Mahon or Anderson and Sheppard.
The extended shoulders give it away. A&S.
thanks for this post. It was one of those things that, I had never understood it before.
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