There is a tension in men's dress, a tension between looking good and looking as though one did not spend time considering how to do so. The tension arises because for centuries the male ideal was the man in a military uniform cut to perfection. And though military officers' dress regulations have usually given their wearers a great deal of latitude, the presumption was generally that men in uniform were wearing ensembles that they could don blindfolded because everything had been specified for them.
Carried over to civilian clothing, the ideal has traditionally been that a man should not look too "put together," a state that might apply to a basic combination like a navy suit, light blue shirt, mid-blue necktie, and a patterned blue linen pocket square where every element relates to or matches everything else.
The simplest way to avoid looking too put together is to minimize repetition of colors or patterns in the day's dress, where an example might be a gray flannel suit worn with a white shirt, navy necktie, and a white linen square with a maroon border. Or, consider a combination similar to the one in the photograph: tan suit, light blue shirt, brown and ivory necktie and a maroon linen square with white dots.
It takes thought to arrive at an unstudied look.
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8 comments:
Will,
The off kilter tie makes me want to reach through the screen and straighten it.
That was my sprezzatura for the day.
Will, that's a great looking suit, the cloth appears heavier than most tan suits commonly seen today. Would you mind sharing more details about the cloth?
It's a 12 ounce gabardine.
Wow!! Will, that's an awfully good double breasted suit. And it got four most beautiful buttons. I normally get 6 from my reference taylors here in South America. What a fit, what a fine line! Is it allowed to ask who's the maker?
Anyway, congrats for the whole idea. Masterful.
Luis
Yes..that's very sloppy look that is only recognized by us fanatics ... noting and appreciating the effort!
I walked past an older gentlemen today near via Condotti in Rome (Spanish steps)...he was tanned, in his late sixties, full head of longish white hair, blue suit, lavender tie, cordovan shoes... eye catching, and more so because he looked like a more handsome version of Agnelli, but a little more sloppy due to the heat. He was summer in Rome personified. I couldn't help but smile and nod. I felt silly. He looked me up and down, and said "buona sera". Maybe he approved of my rags...too neatly put together.
This blends; tan, brown, maroon and blue so pale it may as well be white.
The gingham /2 polka dots are still, I'd say, more conservative than unstudied.
Like the buttons though - very good.
It just echoes that famous adage (Hardy Amies?) : a gentleman should look like his clothes have been chosen with care yet worn with nonchalance.
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