Friday, July 24, 2009

City and Country Dressing

I write about city this and country that quite a bit, and a reader wrote back asking me to discuss the relevence of city vs. country clothes in a time when a man in a country style tweed jacket may be dressed more formally than the majority of men on the street in a major city. Great question, and the simplest explanation is a single word: color.

Every man, even one whose wardrobe does not extend much past shirts and trousers, looks more natural in colors that are related to his surroundings. Most people, men and women alike, wear lighter colors in the bright light of summer, darker ones in the depths of winter, and black after the sun sets. It makes equal sense to wear greens and browns for a walk in the country, and grays and blues amidst concrete and stone.

Things do not need to get more complicated than color but compounding the city vs country distinction are the application of common sense to different degrees of formality and functionality. City situations tend to be more formal, and city clothes tend to be more formal as well. Country clothing, on the other hand, tends to be more functional, in that much of it is designed for sports.

And so we have Esquire's city man making his case to a jury in a navy suit and black cap toed oxfords. He is in stark contrast to his Apparel Arts cousin who is watching a hunt in a gabardine shooting jacket, checked flannel trousers, and brown shoes.

9 comments:

gdworjan said...

In an era such as this, however, Will, this begs a further question for Americans: where do we really find country dressing acceptable? As you've noted, if you're in the Midwest, for example, that you're even wearing a jacket is going to be seen as thoroughly formal. However, as an East Coaster in a suburb, are we to assume that most suburbs of the East Coast are just counted as city dress?

CodeForever said...

Awesome article. That is the best explanation on color and materials that I have read.

GDWorjan makes a great point. I was just at a wedding in Hinsdale, IL that was after 6. Out of 100 people I was the only one in a suit at a WEDDING. The card didn't say what the dress was and I assumed a wedding would at least be a suit.

I don't get it at all, since most men look better in a nice conservative suit than khaki's and a polo.

Bob said...

I think it may have something to do with the city you are in.

For instance, Mr. Perlstein's great store Louis' of Boston was an utter failure when he opened in New York.

Reason? He failed to take in to account that when in New York City you "don't wear brown in Town" and his store was filled to over-flowing with the most exquisite naturals. Uh oh.

Will said...

When is country dressing acceptable? Perhaps youmean when is a jacket acceptable? Always. Of course, some men live in areas where purchasing a jacket requires a hundred mile trip. There won't be many of them seen there.

I wrote a post about dressing for the suburbs a couple of years ago that you may find interesting gdworjan. Use the blog search function.

Johnny said...

Will,

Thanks for this article.

But where does type of clothing fit in with the color criterion? What of a tan wool suit or a gray tweed odd jacket?

Also, how does one define city and country? Say you stay overnight in a small town, and your hotel is downtown, such as it is. Are you in the city or the country?

Will said...

Johnny, see my post on dressing for the suburbs. Generally, any incorporated area aside from the major metropolitan centers is treated like a suburb.

Richard said...

Will, a pithy summary of the issue. Well put.

reading the world said...

Will,

How might one apply these notions to dressing for business in casual areas? For example, what might one wear to a business meeting when located on Florida's Emerald Coast or in the countryside in the southwest of England (e.g., Dorchester)?

The Modest Adonis said...

Will, i would like to mention that i am very taken and humbled by your wealth of knowledge on mens tailoring and clothing in general. i am a fond and avid reader of your blog...

 
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