Saturday, August 1, 2009

Ask to See The Smith's


In our world of instant access to information, Smith and Co (Woollens) barely exists. There is little information about the company or its products available online. It has a London office in a basement near Savile Row, and owns W. Bill's, the fabric house known for its amazing selection of tweed, and which is also located in a (different) basement near the Row.

Now this would hardly be worth mentioning except that Smith's produces some of the most interesting cloth available to the bespoke tailoring trade. I took delivery of a suit in their Solaro mid-weight this spring, have the pictured blue/gray high twist 11 ounce Finmeresco on the way, and the cloth for a third, a mid-gray cut length of their 15 ounce Whole Fleece, is sitting at Davies & Son in London.


That there is something called Whole Fleece says a lot about Smith Woolens. Whole Fleece is a cloth made the way cloth was made before the Supers came along. Instead of removing all the fine wool from a shearing to make a modern light-weight, and I mean that in more than one sense of the word, cloth, Smith wove the entire fleece into something far more beautiful - substantial but soft cloth with a great hand. And instead of producing a book of twenty varieties, Smith offers the four plain weaves in the typical British palette in the second photo: mid gray, dark gray, charcoal and navy solids.

The next time a table laden with fabric books is at hand, ask to see the Smith's.

4 comments:

Horatio said...

Beautiful suit! I love the color. I can't wait to see the finished product.

santy567 said...

that suit needs shape, specially on the arm and waist. maybe an overcoat can look that big.
i been having doubts about those english tailors visiting tha U.S. it's not the way a tailor should work, i'd like to see my tailor at least once a week. those twice a year visits are dubious, not a lot of work can be done in so little time. not even time to chat about the latest cut or fashion.
i won't even get into the financial question.

Will said...

Your opinion is always welcome of course, and you are not required to like my suits but he is hardly a visiting tailor. I am at his office in the photo.

I see him several times a year, and we don't chat about fashion because I don't care about fashion.

Seeing any tailor weekly would be a bit much even for me.

Jeff said...

Does Tom normally have pockets cut in for a basted fitting? I thought that they were normally left out until after the first fitting, but I could of course be wrong about that.

 
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