Photo: Gaziano & GirlingA reader asked me to write the follow-up to last year's piece on how a man might put together a professional wardrobe on a budget of $5-7,000 annually. In the first year, I recommended purchasing a medium-weight suit, a blazer, and an odd jacket with accessories, and then planning to focus on lighter weight clothing the second year.
Again budgeting about $1,000 for a suit or a jacket and trousers combination, in the second year acquire a navy blue suit in a ten month cloth, a light gray tropical weight suit and a discreetly patterned lightweight odd jacket with a tan ground as well as a pair of light gray tropical wool trousers. This provides a total of three suits for warm weather wear, as well as a blazer and two odd jackets for less formal occasions.
It is a little harder to be specific about accessories in this and future years since it is difficult to predict the rate at which things wear out and need to be replaced, but, barring disaster, all of last year's clothing should still be serviceable. Add a pair of cordovan colored monkstrap shoes with matching belt to the purchase list and take last year's shoes to a cobbler for new heels. The repairs will extend their life.
Next, re-visit a shirtmaker for another half dozen button cuff dress shirts, half of them for year-round wear and half in lighter weight cloth. Pick up a couple pair of wool and a couple pair of cotton dress socks to extend that part of your wardrobe. Ditto for underwear.
Finally, pick out another half dozen neckties if you are wearing them at least two days a week. And that will take care of the budget for dressy clothing.
Looking ahead to year three, the focus should be adding three more mid-weight suits so a different one is available for each day of the week.
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13 comments:
More good advice. Would you consider making a similar set of tips for those with a more modest budget?
I noticed that you do not suggest any buttondown shirts, nor do we ever see pictures of you wearing them. May I ask why?
How does a novice begin with a shirtmaker? Who would you suggest for beginners? Thank you.
The suggested items can probably be acquired for 25% less than my estimates with careful shopping, perhaps even a bit less.
Unfortunately, this kind of clothing is expensive. At half the budget, I don't think the recommended approach is still valid as quality will be compromised. I would shift to best quality items from thrift stores, an area I don't write about often as thrifting tends to be very local and I don't pretend to know it in that kind of depth.
A novice in the cities served by MyTailor will get improved fit and a wider selection of fabrics and styles for less than the cost of comparable shirts at a department store.
Buttondown shirts? No Agnelli, me. I have some, but only to wear under sweaters in cool weather. I have no need for their other principal use, which is shirt and trouser dressing without a jacket.
Regarding replacing welted shoe soles, an alternative is to cover them with a thin rubber sole as well as a thin "heel" that you can replace in my case every 6 months, but I walk alot in them. This also obtains some benefit in the rain protecting the sole.
Will,
Can you recommend alternatives to Ben Silver for suits, jackets and pants?
I have been pleased with your other recommendations of Alden, Sam Hober and MyTailor.com.
Thank you.
Hi Will, Thank you for the valuable information. I already own a navy DB patch pocket blazer, should I purchase an identical SB blazer or patterned lightweight odd jacket with a tan ground. If the latter, then would it be appropriate for business meetings when paired with grey trousers and black or burgundy shoes?
There are many alternatives to Ben Silver, depending on one's location and style. Look at Paul Stuart.
SMI, the odd jacket is for days when you are NOT having business meetings. Pair it with brown shoes.
Your DB blazer plays the same role as a single breasted.
Thank you for your thoughtful and informative answers. I read ASW everyday, not only because I like the content and pictures, but also because it's such a pleasant corner of the all-too-often unfriendly 'net.
Which just serves as a reminder: gentlemanly dress and behavior are intimately linked, and you, Will, are a stellar example of both. Thank you.
Hi Will, I'm a novice and plan to build a wardrobe from scratch. I don't wear suit everyday. Business casual is enough for me. I'm considering to make some good jackets from local tailor. Fortunately I'm in Hong Kong and there are plenty of good tailor here. My question is which kind of jacketing do you think is the most versatile, in terms of fabric/pattern/material etc? Do you have some recommendations? Thanks you so much.
Yace
The shoes in photo look great. What model are these? Do you happen to have an online link for them?
great advice. i agree with will that a lot of these items can be purchased for less if you exercise a bit of patience.
Dear Will,
I get confused by descriptions such as "year round", "tropical weight", and "ten month". What would the actual weight of the fabric be for such terms? Or am is that not the appropriate measure?
Thanks
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