The 4x1 double breasted jacket (a DB with a four button front, only one of which is working) that is frequently seen in photos of the late Duke of Windsor was actually popularized during the 1930's by the man in the photo: Windsor's late brother, the Duke of Kent.
When made properly, the 4x1's two lower buttons are in line with the tops of the side pockets and the two upper, non-working, buttons are keystoned out above them. The spacing between the upper and lower buttons is quite a bit closer than it is on a more conventional 6x2 double breasted.
The 4x1 DB is a great look on men of average stature or less as the longer sweep of the lapel relative to the jacket gives the impression of height. Despite this, the style is usually only available from bespoke tailors today, and even here a man needs to be careful and precise when he is placing the order. I attempted to order two of them within the past year, from two different tailors. I got one jacket that was a 6x2 minus the top buttons and another that was a conventional 6x2. I still do not own a 4x1.
But I intend to continue trying.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
The 4x1 DB
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15 comments:
Well Will, here we disagree. The 4 on 1 DB really is flattering to no man, unless he is in shape enough, say, to row the Atlantic alone.
That is because the emphasis placed by the buttons in addition to the pockets at just exactly the place one might wish to have one's tailor conceal, well, it just never seems to work out that great even with the additional sweep of the lapel.
The 4 on 1 is a great idea whose time has not yet returned, in my opinion, and I guess likewise in the opinion of your otherwise most trustworthy tailors.
I love double breasted suits. I wish more men would see the style in them. Thank you for continuing their education.
Andrew
lawrencecovellblog.blogspot.com
More a matter of lack of competence on the part of one of my tailors and poor listening skills on the part of the other Bob.
I agree that the cut looks better on a thin man, but then so do clothes generally.
The 4X1 accentuates the physical imperfection of a less than flat stomach.
It is only surpassed in this by wearing ones trouser under ones belly with the waist band rolled over.
M Hampton I am of the firm belief that any man, however short in height or wide in girth, can wear a double breasted. The 4 to 1 would look good on you Will so keep trying. The problem with many men is not with the model of the double breasted, but rather the fit and cut of the suit. If the button closure suits the man and the fit is right the natural elegance of the db always comes through.
Your comments about the 4 on 1 looking
good on short men could be right on. Case
in point, I saw Ralph Lauren at the Pebble Beach
Concours maybe seven or eight years ago
wearing a 4 on1 blue blazer with a pair of
yellow slacks and what looked like Belgian
loafers. Not surprisingly, he pulled it off.
Although I would dispense with the yellow
slacks.
By a funny coincidence, I just thrifted a very nice 4 on 1 double-breasted suit. It needs a little alteration and it will be ready to wear. Although I'm not as slender as I once was, I am, shall we say, vertically challenged, so I hope I will be able to pull it off.
Will, what would you advise (besides making clear one does not want a 6x2 minus the top buttons or a conventional 6x2) discussing a 4x1 with the tailor to enhance a successful fit?
What about the 6x1? I think it was disparaged in The Suit.
More a matter of a successful cut than fit I would say. Many tailors have never made one.
Great photo and I enjoyed the commentary of the members above.
Regarding the photo, the subtleties are hilarious to me. Never have I a seen such an elegant dresser be so upstaged by small child grabbing their crotch. Priceless.
This picture isn't from the best angle to tell, but most pictures I've seen of the Duke of Kent and Duke of Windsor show them wearing a 4x2, not a 4x1. With the 4x2, only the bottom is fastened. It is like a 6x2 without the top buttons. In the picture of the Duke of Kent I have linked, the buttons are placed in a square but they appear in the keystone manner by the way the jacket is cut. You can tell from the folds of fabric between the buttons.
http://freepages.family.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~fergy/Victoria/dukedsskent.jpg
In certain pictures I've found, the top buttonhole can be seen. It is a similar concept to the 3-roll-2. Check out this picture of the Duke of Windsor:
http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/images/g450000/g457461.jpg
I find this style to be much more appealing than the true 4x1.
William Powell is wearing one in the movie I am watching now "Shadow of the Thin Man" it's sharp !
My Ital,ian Tailor made me a D.B with onloy two buttons.It hangs straight down from the armpits. Its a style called Semi-Drape I blieve
The two button D.B was an idea I got from a Mitchum 40's film
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