One line in a 1967 book, A Dandy in Aspic, stayed with me for decades. The principal character, the aforementioned dandy, noted that he only wore black neckties.
Impressionable in my youth, I emulated that practice for twenty years before broadening my choices. Of course, my decision was reinforced by the observation that many elegant men wore only black ties. But that was before clothing retailers chose to offer wardrobe variety by substituting relatively inexpensive inventories of colored neckties for relatively expensive stocks of patterned dress shirts.
The effect of this emphasis on color was that many men never developed the understanding that light reflection and texture are more important roles for the necktie than color alone. The tie should always contrast with the wool of the jacket, and either texture or reflection provides more contrast than color by itself. In the context of the black necktie, grenadines and silk knits perform the first task and satin solids or herringbones the second.
Reinforcing the choice of the black necktie was the ubiquitous and highly complementary gleam of black leather on a man's feet, but that no longer applies. Since brown shoes have equalled or surpassed black during the day for many men, the black necktie has become just another choice in the wardrobe rather than the principal or only choice. But it continues to shine, literally as well as figuratively, with gray suits like the one on the man to the right in the Esquire illustration.
Consider the black necktie.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
Consider the Black Necktie
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17 comments:
It has rather funereal connotations don't you think.
No, I don't. :-)
The French president Sarkozy seems to have a preference for black ties, often together with a dark blue-gray suit.
I do ;-)
Will, I agree with you and with David.
It depends as much on and the other pieces you wear with it as the texture and reflectiveness of the solid black necktie.
* A solid black repp necktie with a white shirt and dark gray or dark blue suit has more than just funeral connotations. You look like you're mourning, or auditioning to play one of the Blues Brothers.
* But change just the suit to a medium light gray or tan and it no longer suggests mourning, Jake, or Elwood.
* Change the shirt to a white ground under a blue and black tattersall check and it's a little more casual.
* Change the texture of the solid black necktie to grenadine or knit paired and pair the white shirt and a medium gray or tan suit. IMHO, that suggest more nonchalance than it does burial.
* Getting more casual, as long as your shirt isn't black or midnight blue, I doubt anyone will mistake you for the bereaved wearing a knit solid black necktie, medium gray v-neck sweater and a pair of jeans. But I prefer sticking to a lighter shirt (e.g., white, ecru) either solid or an unobtrusive stripe or check with something like this.
I'm afraid I must agree with David. A black tie has certain connotations of mourning, in my opinion. There are so many better options.
Ah-ha. I like black ties, bon't forwn upon combining with brown shoes as the man in the illustration has done...
Consider the silk knit navy blue necktie. To me, it's the epitome of style: it has that simple elegance, and it can be worn in virtually any combination. Always makes you look like a real dresser.
If I had to choose only one tie for my wardrobe, it would be silk knit navy blue necktie.
I understand the appeal of the black tie, but men without high-contrast coloration (i.e., "winters") are going to look wan or sallow with black that close to their face.
Personally, I'll save the black necktie for a funeral. However, the discussion on the importance of texture and reflection was worth the price of admission.
I like black ties with suits/jacket-and-trousers combinations that are brighter colored than the usual navy or charcoal suits - seersucker especially. Black tie/belt/boots work very well together.
Darker suits might suggest a funeral, but you could probably get past that with a colorful pocket square.
I'm with you on that one, marquis. The navy knit tie is by far my favorite; I wish I could wear it more often (were it not for the conventions of rotation...). Being both elegant and nonchalant at the same time, I find it to be suitable for most occasions.
That said, this post reminded me of a white polka dots on black ground knit tie which I've got and never seem to be wearing... Perhaps it is because most of my shoes are brown and I've also been a tad skeptical towards that black/brown combo. See if I can revise my views..
A4, I'd stick with not mixing black and brown. They will always clash, even if mitigated by distance.
The only time I think those two colors go together is on cats (tortoiseshells), dogs (Welsh Terriers and Airedales) and beer (black & tan).
Associating a black tie solely with one event shows a simple lack of imagination.
Poor show.
I favour Turnbull & Asser's knitted silk, as too did Flemmings chap.
For many years my particular cool weather uniform, untrammeled by the petitfoggery of the convention of rotation was a medium gray flannel suit, blue oxford pinpoint shirt with a white collar, a fresh black silk knit tie and a white linen handkerchief.
Brown suedes of course.
Post much appreciated, Will.
Bob, accusing me of petitfoggery? Moi?! Ah, well, perhaps you are right...
I'd like to weigh in on this and say that I like the conservative and simple look of a black tie almost anytime.
Also, like Horatio said, the texture and reflection part of this post of "worth the price of admission". That was really good stuff.
Check out "M" in the early scenes of the first James Bond movie "Dr No". He's wearing what I believe to be a gray flannel DB with a black tie. The shirt is a blue and white stripped. He doesn't look like he's going to a funeral. He looks like he means business.
A black knit tie can look incredibly sober, and for that reason, incredibly sharp. Try it.
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