It is, to my mind, only a slight exaggeration to say that the best thing about the onset of cool weather is that it lets us wear flannel once again. My favorite suits are of the stuff. It is soft and warm-wearing, because its nap traps pockets of air against the skin.
The classic flannel is the gray chalk stripe like the one on the man in the Esquire illustration. The weave gives it a somewhat casual air, making it not quite formal enough for serious business. And that is of course also a good thing, for few men should look serious every day.
Two lengths of flannel sit on the ledge behind my desk, waiting to be turned into wearable art. One is the years in the making Eden in Paris from the London Lounge Cloth Club, a subtle blue and white check on gray in a 15/450 gram ounce weight. The other is a lovely 13 ounce/400 gram glen check, also in gray. Each will become a single breasted, to be worn with a white cashmere waistcoat.
I do love flannel.
Monday, September 21, 2009
In Praise of Flannel
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7 comments:
This post could not have come at a more inopportune time...the economic crisis has agitated my tailor whose children I have supported since I became his devoted client...I have thought about nothing but flannel for the past two months.
Mine will be a solid blue flannel, single breasted with a vest and two pairs of trousers. One with outward pleats and the other with inward facing pleats specifically made for braces/suspenders. I hope to have it with a touch of cashmere within the weave to give it a slight softened hand. If I could only find the right hue of blue...
Will, the cashmere waistcoat - double breasted shawl lapel?
Double breasted shawl, yes.
Will, you have stirred the pot. I ordered a gray with chalk stripe, DB 4X1 inspired by your recent post, with single pleat and cuffed and Daks waist trousers.
Just a post request here - I'm a young guy that's trying to build a wardrobe to last. I'm finishing law school, so my uniform will be suits daily - I prefer to be the best dressed in the office.
So I'm looking for some advice on the basics to know when replacing cheap of-the-rack suits with newly discovered custom clothing. Pleats or not, and if so, what type. When to cuff, and when not to. Shoe choices, etc. Subtle choices to add some custom flare. Do's and Don'ts (to button or unbutton the cuffs, etc.)
Maybe a good introduction to the newly introduced. Great blog. I look forward to every post.
Moody:
For a starter, consider Will's posts of Nov 27, 2006, Feb 7, 2008, and Aug 12, 2009. These will help with foundational information. Beyond tis foundation, many of the specific details you ask about are scattered throughout ASW.
Moody,
Being the "best dressed"--an admirable goal--should not be confused with "most noticeable." For most of us, "best dressed" means avoiding affectations, like unbuttoning one button of your jacket's working sleeve buttons. Also, to make a good impression on your boss and coworkers, start by dressing well but discreetly. Once you have built a good reputation, it's easier to dress with more flair.
Keep reading ASW, read its archives, and find one or two other men's style (not fashion!) blogs for more guidance. You should also talk to some established lawyers for advice. If you're lucky, you will find mentors whose wisdom will take you far.
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