Cashmere is stratospherically priced in most tailored clothing these days unless it is mixed with less expensive fibers, but there remains one relatively affordable application for it and that is the odd waistcoat. Done, for example, in cream and preferably double breasted like the version on the spat wearing fellow in the illustration, the odd cashmere waistcoat adds depth to a variety of fall ensembles. Wear it under a jacket that has some white in the weave, such as a glen check or a chalk stripe, to blend it in.
Now the odd cashmere waistcoat is only more affordable because it requires significantly less of the precious stuff than do jackets or trousers, and that may be why Beau Brummel himself chose it for his. Just half a meter will suffice for most men as the back of a waistcoat is usually made from Bemberg or other lining material.
That puts the odd cashmere waistcoat in the prudent expenditure category for the imprudent among us.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Prudence for the Imprudent
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10 comments:
I think that’s a fine idea, and the accompanying illustration is a particularly nice one that makes the point beautifully. Being greedy, I only wish it had originally been done in color.
You've led me to imprudence, Will. What a wonderful way to ensure that my tailor continues to remember my name.
Will, I wonder, how do you know that Brummell (with a double-l) used cashmere for his waistcoats? I was under the impression that tailors began to use it more commonly years after his time.
Sorry about the typo. I read it in one of his biographies.
I think a cream double breasted cashmere vest is a delightful idea as well.
To keep with the antiquarian theme without resorting to "spatification" you could choose a striped twill lining for the back.
This could add expense to your enterprise but consider the result!
It was cotton-twill in the book that I read, which kind of makes sence to me, since cashmere seems still a tad exotic for that period... Anyhows, the idea is great & had the cashmere been available, old BB would have, no doubt used it.
Would one say those are uncuffed, flat front (perhaps a small pleat up high at the waist) trousers on the well-vested fellow?
Wonderful idea, Will. Do you have any to share with us, and if so, would you, please?
Looks like a single inward-facing pleat on our invested & bespatted friend.
Spats: how could something that looks so good have gone so utterly and irretrievably by the wayside?
Quick question: is an odd waistcoat acceptable as an accessory to a suit, or is it more at home with the odd jacket and trousers? Or both? :)
Odd vest good with either.
For instance a white pique vest with a beaded stripe suit in the summer is equally right as natural linen worn with, say a silk tussah odd jacket, etc.
For fall try a dove gray doeskin flannel odd vest with a chalk stripe flannel suit or a fine goatskin suede with tweeds and whipcord trousers. Hmmm.
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