A reader suggested that I might enjoy a new book and multimedia sewing workshop titled Making Trousers for Men & Women, by David Page Coffin. And I am so far, though not in a way anyone might have predicted. For the book was open on my desk when Salvatore Ambrosi and I worked out how to get some trousers made.
Mr. Ambrosi you see is the junior member of the Ambrosi trouser-makers of Naples, Italy. Ambrosi trousers are beautifully detailed, and I have thought about wearing a pair. Alas, the obstacles were daunting: I do not travel to Naples; the Ambrosis do not visit San Francisco; the principal payment option apparently consists of sending currency by FedEx; I wear a different style of trouser than the Ambrosi house style; and communicating promised to be difficult given the lack of a common language. That had been quite enough to leave me completely happy with my current trousermaker.
Fortunately, there is Facebook. I have a page, Salvatore has a page, and over the months we have found that we are actually able to communicate. So a pair of my trousers will soon be winging its way to the Ambrosi atelier, where they will be measured and then re-imagined a la Ambrosi in some of Dormeuil's cream colored worsted flannel.
While that important work is going on, gentlemen interested in the technical details of how trousers are and should be made are likely to enjoy the book. There will be a test when the flannels arrive.
Friday, September 25, 2009
Somewhat About Trousermaking
Photo: David Page Coffin
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
9 comments:
Generally the bespoke trouser customer is given the option of a button fly or a zipper. I know the virtues of a zipper. Is there a principal reason for a button fly, aside from tradition?
The zipper can leave a mark on the front of the trouser and the button does not. Other than that, to my knowledge, only tradition.
A zipper can leave a -mark- as you put it in many places a button cannot and that is reason enough to choose the latter when asked.
I have both. The buttons do not pose any real obstacles as long as you aren't in a rush. The main problem with button flys is that you can't just unzip in the lavatory. You must always retuck the shirt. Other than that and what will points out, no other advantage or disadvantage.
Will, what is the approx. cost for a pair of Ambrosi trousers?
Is Ambrosi making your trousers in your usual forward-pleated style? Does the book you mention cover forward pleats vs. reverse pleats? How about the Daks waistband?
Replacing buttons is easier.
I notice no belt loops. I wonder why - Excuse the ignorance?
Bespoke trousers stay in place without belts. It's a cleaner look.
How to make pleated pants look appropriate & sturdy?
Post a Comment