We no longer wear hats most days, but in Autumn the things are too useful to be without. Open topped cars on sunny days are one occasion. Spitting rain is another. A wardrobe of three types will suffice.
I recall seeing two very large gentlemen in a Jaguar convertible looking smashing in their Homburg hats. That is the model at the upper right in the Esquire illustration and it is the most formal of the three types. Have one of them in the more casual Lord's hat version, colored either black or midnight blue, for semi-formal dress and dark city suits.
Then there is the Cavalier felt, at the lower left. In lightweight beaver it is to my eye the best looking of the general purpose hat shapes, and a brown one strikes the right note with flannel suits. The more frequent hat wearer may want a second, in gray, to wear with his worsteds.
Finally, every wardrobe should have at least one cap, like the one worn by the young man at the upper left, for casual days and they are so useful that four of them are not too many. In tweed, cashmere or corduroy, and properly full cut - the versions offered by London's Lock & Co today are too skimpy - they are worn when other men might don baseball caps, about which nothing need be said.
And those are three hat styles for autumn. Or spring for that matter.
Monday, September 28, 2009
Three Hat Styles for Autumn
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11 comments:
Can you say a bit more about the cut of the flat cap, regarding full cut and that from Lock? I'm looking into getting one of these in tweed, but am shopping around. I've looked a bit at Lock, and at Bookster. Do you have any recommendations?
Well, if it's a raw edge, a dent and a pair of chamois gloves to take the formality out of even an homburg then what little wonders could save the derby, one wonders.
Matthew, I like Lawrence & Foster. They make caps for Lock. Ask for the Alden shape, which is like the caps Edward VIII wore when he was still Prince of Wales.
http://www.lawrenceandfoster.co.uk/
A photo of the shape in linen is here:
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2009/07/105-in-shade.html
These larger affairs are all a bit whimsical for me.
Bates' (Jermyn Street) smaller brimmed hats are a good alternative.
A great place and very reasonable too.
Hmm. Interesting that you didn't mention the fedora. Some consider it to be the most flattering to the widest variety of head and face shapes. Fedoras can be matched with both suits and odd jackets. Furthermore, I believe we are far enough away temporally from the Indiana Jones movies that a man can safely wear one without worrying about impertinent inquiries into the wearer's next archaeological foray for lost treasures in the jungle.
As for bowlers/derbies, I'm afraid that they, like straw boaters, are inevitably going to be seen as costume. They are so far gone as to be beyond resurrection.
Regardless, the hat is an indispensable part of a well-dressed man's wardrobe, in heat, cold, fair weather, and rain, and I'm glad to see you both wearing and promoting them.
I wear a hat every day, there is really no reason not to if one is so inclined, and it is a splendid look.
Smaller brim hats are fine, of course, but are a very 50s-60s looks so be aware of that. Go for fur felt for quality, wool felt loses its shape rapidly. Avoid cloth and tweed fedoras like the plague, or any synthetic fibre.
Where can one by a Lord's hat?
You'll probably need to have it made Ludovico. It's a homburg with an unbound brim, worn with bashes in the crown.
Another way one might get a Lord's hat is by going to a real-live haberdasher--a hat store--and getting someone to reshape the crown of a Homburg-style hat for you. I'm not sure how successful that might be, but it's worth a shot if you cannot find (or afford) bespoke hats, though you can get a bespoke hat, starting from about $300, at Vintage Silhouettes (full disclosure: no connection).
Will,
Sorry for the ignorance but do you have any suggestions about where could I find a cavalier-type hat? I have perused Optimo and VS, but could not identify the type.
Thanks,
Luis
Send one of them a couple of the illustrations and ask them to make you one. I had VS do mine and it's probably my favorite felt but doesn't really have a cavalier brim.
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