September means it is time for tweed. The lightweight variety of tweed, that is.
Now, there are cloths that look like tweed and are lighter than the 14 ounces/420 grams cloth that is the lower boundary of the real thing, but all incorporate some form of compromise. For example, the excellent 12 ounce/360 gram Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth patterns are worsteds posing as tweed. That does not make them somehow inferior, but they are not tweed.
Another approach to lighter tweed is to use a 2x1 weave instead of 2x2, with or without a worsted yarn in combination with the woolens. That makes for lighter weight but also greater delicacy. Still, it has its place, so long as there are no expectations that a jacket from the stuff will be passed down to future generations.
In the photograph, a 10.5 ounce/310 gram herringbone combines with a (not so) hidden buttondown chambray shirt and the first wool tartan necktie of the season.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Tweed Time
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14 comments:
Is there a name for the extra buttonhole/flap attached to the lapel? I've never seen a jacket with that feature before.
Love that color.
Love the necktie--the pink in it makes it pop. I recently acquired a nice woolen made-in-Scotland tartan tie myself, and it, too, incorporates some unexpectedly bright colors. The end of summer doesn't mean we can't wear something cheery!
if "14 ounces/420 grams cloth ... is the lower boundary of the real thing" how can "10.5 ounce/310 gram tweed herringbone" be 'real' tweed?
Like the jacket and tie though!
Exceptionally nice tweed. Throat latch distracting eye from button concealment problem. No worries.
AC, the throat latch on the lapel is there to button the lapels closed if the weather calls for it.
ajvphilp, the coat is that weight because it's a 2x1 weave and not "real" tweed.
Will,
Would you please elaborate on how a throat latch works? Is there a button on the underside of the opposite lapel? Couldn't the regular lapel button accomplish basically the same thing, albeit about an inch lower? Have you ever used the throat latch for its utilitarian function, or do you consider it just aesthetic?
Will, two questions. I'm planning on ordering a grey herringbone Harris tweed jacket (430-450 grams). What's your opinion on two-button vs. three? I'm a tall, slender guy and typically go for two-button, but in this case I'm not sure.
Also, can you comment on whether the throat-latch is a generally advisable choice? I see that you have it on your jacket here. Are there any downsides to getting it?
Tell us about the tie! It's beautiful.
The tie is a wool tartan, 3.5 inches wide and 55 inches long. $130 from ASW.
Matthew, if you plan to wear the jacket out of doors I suggest a three button front. The smaller shirt opening will keep you warmer.
And warmth is the point of the throat latch, which attaches to a button under the opposite lapel. The regular buttonhole is only aesthetic.
Will, I wonder, if the regular buttonhole on the lapel is only aesthetic, then why is it cut in the "keyhole" shape? (this is, I have to say, the one element that kind of put me off, at first glance). Is it done so in order not to clash with the one on the latch? Thanks.
Where did you get that jacket?
What is ASW?
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