Thanks to the wind for making the waistbands visible on Frank and Dean's trousers in the photo, which is from Eric Musgrave's book Sharp Suits. Sharp-eyed readers will note that said waists are beltless, which some people may be surprised to learn was the usual state for bespoke garments before ready to wear clothes trained the eye to expect a belt.
In the English tailoring tradition, suit trousers are usually supported by braces, those over the shoulder straps that Americans call suspenders. Braces do their work gracefully, allowing trousers to hang without the need for adjustment during the day. Despite their effectiveness, in an era when men routinely remove their jackets visible braces are not always well received by people who are not used to the look. And trousers cut for braces cannot be supported any other way, since they have an inch or more of slack at the waist to allow for freedom of movement.
Men who want to avoid braces, and there have been many of them over the years, also need to avoid belts if, like Mr. Sinatra, they wish to wear a vest without looking like a hick from the sticks. For a visible belt buckle beneath a vest is a sartorial sin comparable to showing bare skin above one's socks when seated. So the bespoke waistband is sewn to fit precisely, supporting the trouser with no more assistance than a strap and buckle or two.
It is a more elegant look than the belted trouser, in my opinion.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
The Bespoke Waistband
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13 comments:
interesting :)these men knew how to dress up :)
There may be more than what you see here, by which I mean side buckles or buttoned side tabs. Both were popular even in RTW of the period (late 50s/early 60s). Side tabs may also be connected by a band of elastic sewn into the back of the waist. Also, strips of rubber or leather inside the waist band help keep the shirt in place. All these were used in various combinations during this beltless, braceless period. Needless to day, none of these techniques will do much good unless the waistband is at the natural waist.
Will, for what it's worth, it's interesting to note the aircraft that Dean and Frank are in front of... that's a Middle East Airlines de Havilland Comet 4C (a very rare type), and a BOAC Boeing 707 behind it, wearing a very old BOAC livery.
Will- I've hear that making a properly fitting pair of trousers is one of the most difficult accomplishments for a bespoke tailor. Much work goes into the waistband and the pressing of the trouser legs. Can you speak a little about what differentiates a well-tailored pair of bespoke trousers from something MTM or off the rack?
Kirby, watch this space. There's be a couple posts on trouser constructions as soon as the post office delivers a pair of flannels from Naples.
On some of my recent suits commissioned this year I had DAKS waists made, inspired by ASW. At first I was unsure of the look, being so used to seeing a belt. Over time I am convinced it is a better way to go, especially for a couple of the suits for which I had waist coats made as well. For when I wear a waist coat, which is not often, I use braces and the beltless waist, as you say, is the only way to go in that case.
It depends on the trousers. I saw a Pal Zieri suit in light grey recently with a white belt looked great because the thing is who does the jacket up anyway.If wearing a vest keep it outbuttoned these days as its far cooler.
I've always been of the opinion that no suit (irrespective of bespoke or off-the-peg) should ever be worn with a belt. I was therefore surprised by this post. Speaking as a Brit, I would never be seen dead in any suit that requires a belt. With smart trousers and sports jacket, definitely, but never with a suit.
I'm generally a beltless heathen and would commission such trousers in a heartbeat
Frank and the gent on the far left look particularly swank. The shot itself is skilfully done
Gear Monkey,
I'm overjoyed to find someone who shares my view of belts on suits.
I'm disappointed that there is a gap between Frank's trousers and waistcoat. He could do with a pair of braces. I'm not quite sure that the wind would creat the gap between the two, and when wearing a 3 piece, gap is the biggest mistake a gent can make.
subtle points.
i've never been sensitive to the buckle/vest observation. i'll keep a look out now.
if not yet, perhaps a posting on the history of pleats would be in order.
-Mr SHP
Regarding the message of this post: Hear, hear.
However, this picture of Dean and Frank is one of my least favourite pictures from that book. If those are indeed bespoke suits, then I can only wonder why they were tailored so poorly that Frank's trousers and waistcoat are so badly co-ordinated that they leave visible an obscene little triangle of white shirt-space between them? How could the wind be accountable for lifting his vest two to three inches higher than it should be? I am incredulous.
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