When well-dressed men transgress, their clothing-related sins usually involve overt attention seeking with unusual styles and loud color combinations (often at the same time). That sort of attention clamoring never seems to apply to Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, without a doubt one of the very best dressed men in the public eye.
No, when Montezemolo errs, he is still wearing conservative clothing, well cut and discreetly colored. His penchant is instead to push the boundaries of sprezzatura, or studied carelessness. The idea is to show that one is not too careful with his clothes, which is of course more of an obsession than not.
For example, would anyone argue that the jacket in the center of the photo is unintentionally buttoned incorrectly? Caraceni never intended for that lower button to be closed, and Montezemolo knows it. But there are half a dozen or more photos online that show him wearing a coat cut to button to the center or top, buttoned instead all the way or to the bottom.
Carelessness indeed!
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Carelessness Indeed!
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15 comments:
The gentleman to our right (his left) likewise has both buttons fastened. Fashion or carelessness on both their parts?
Let's not call it carelessness. If LCdiM hadn't had his lower button closed while holding his arms far out like this, his jacket would have spread open and and the tip of his tie would be sticking out below his one button, while probably a piece of shirt just above the belt would be revealed as well -- that had maybe not stayed tucked in. So let's call it extreme awareness of the situation instead.
Well,JFK used to close both buttons of his 2-button jackets. Although, speculation is that it was more to conceal his back support contraption then a statement of style.
The difference is that JFK's jackets were cut to be worn with both buttons closed, and the coat on the right has the top two closed, which is also the way the coat was designed.
Montezemolo's jacket was cut with the intention that the bottom button, like the lowest button on a vest, would never be closed.
And if the button was open and his arms at his side I can assure you that the tip of his bespoke necktie would not be visible.
I have seen many pictures of this gentleman. I think he knows very well what he is doing. I agree with kds. I do not find this gentleman to be that great a dresser. In fact, I find him to be a safe dresser choosing safe colors to avoid any concerns about clothing choices.
I am a patzer at this, but I do like his suits and ties--though i wouldn't do the button thing or the pocket sqaure like that.
"The gentleman to our right (his left) likewise has both buttons fastened. Fashion or carelessness on both their parts?"
The man on the right might have a 3-button jacket - but even if not, you can tell that the fabric doesn't bunch up as it does with M's jacket.
Of course, this could be a simple case of a man who spilled something on his pants and doesn't want that showing up in a photograph.
What about his tie space? Is it too much? And what about his pocket square? Does it stick out too much? Of course, with pocket squares, they can shift depending on posture and use over time. And he does have both arms extended. Usually I like the way he dresses.
montezemola is not one thing or another.I'd say elegant but boring.If he does one button up or another who cares.hes not a great dresser. I've seen him close up.
men who button up single breasted lose any idea that they are into fashion,elegance,reason,logic or smartness. the only thing I button is a Single breasted blazer. In MonteNapoleone the fashion is to always have a D.B unbuttoned.
as regards american presidents when did any of them look elegant instead of just smart? berlusconi for all his supposed criminal activities looks the business even if the look is a bit J.J.Gittes
Buttoning the lower button. Carelessness, or studied error? Whatever it is, I don't care for it. That aside, his suit is gorgeous. And the shirt and solid tie--I notice this is a common Italian look and I love it. The tie bar, artfully designed to resemble a miniature microphone, I could do without though.
I find Luca neither boring nor poorly dressed. Look at most pictures of his mentor Gianni Agnelli and the color palettes are the same. He is very well dressed, and if you ever meet him, a wonderful man.
I wish more people dressed so boring!
www.lawrencecovellblog.com
The pale blue shirt and solid blue tie is a very common look in Italy. It is a flexible shirt & tie combination because it will work well with a charcoal suit and render an odd jacket combination more formal. It permits odd jacket and trouser combination with a more pattern to harmonize elegantly. Personally I never find it boring-quite the contrary.
Of course, the rumor is Luca Cordero is Agnelli's son. The resemblance is certainly there.
Luca is not poorly dressed he's just a bit boring. The fellow who does this blog is miles better.Some of the stuff he wears puts Monte from Ferrari in the shade. If you lived in Italy you would understand why
Well never listen to gossip, its the worst damaging thing in the world. Thats why if you want to be very very negative be born a woman because gossip is their mat said I find the clothes featured on this blog to be better than anything I ever see in Italy, miles better.Here clothes become a work of art.Whats fun about the grey charcoal suit look? =nothing=if thats all you see
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