Friday, October 23, 2009

Every Man Should Have a Pair


In the most formal of clothing lexicons, slip-on shoes are for wear about the house or with casual clothing outdoors in summer. Needless to say, that useage has gone out of fashion, and slip-on shoes are often worn with suits in the United States, Italy, and other countries other than England. The default style is arguably the Alden tassel moccasin, a perfectly fine shoe with an odd jacket but technically no better than a penny loafer under a suit.

The challenge with slip-ons is of course that their low cut decreases their formality and does not offer the support or protection from the elements of a laced shoe. But not all slip-ons are low sided. Bespoke shoe makers as well as a few of the better ready to wear firms such as Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling offer slip-on shoes that are the near equivalent of their laced brethren in terms of both form and function. That equivalency comes from higher sides than the casual slip-on, accompanied by elastic that allows them to be slid on and off of the foot for airport security.

Unlike low sided slip-ons, elastic sided designs like the George Cleverley bespoke sample in the photo usually feature enough brogueing to look somewhat like a laced dress shoe while preserving the slip-on's convenience. Every suit-wearing travelling man should have a pair, in my opinion.

6 comments:

Jamaican said...

Dear Sir I work in the Square Mile in London... the conservative black shoe part. The old rule of not wearing casuals with suits is no more, or at least alive but in weakened - probably maimed form. One often sees well established executives in dark suits, red socks and loafers with tastles... now the loafers are usually black, but they are loafers nonetheless. Jamaican

santy567 said...

i like low vamp loafers, they look effeminate and it takes some style to wear them.

El Aristócrata said...

In my opinion, no loafers should be wear when dressing a suit. Loafers are for casual wear but never should be used them if we dress formal or even semi.
EA

FIXED BAYONET METAL SOLDIERS said...

The "Jam" who works in the City forgot to say that the "Shirts" and the "Suits" look dreadful al the time when you see them alkking around in te city.No not dreadful seedy as well.

Richard said...

Well said, El Aristócrata. Why wear a full-on city suit, when you combine in an unbalanced fashion it with a light and casual shoe like a loafer? A city suit that gives a professional flair will sit oddly with a causal shoe that represents more relaxation than serious business; the lack of style consistency in some be-tassled executives is the exception that only confirms the rule. And no matter how much people want to manipulate and re-define it, historically and by construction and styling a loafer is a causal shoe - that is the beauty of a light summer loafer. And that's why gentlemen of style cannot wear them with formal gear. Now there is one genuine exception, not trumped up by fashionistas and people who do not appreciate the principles of style, but as the result of climate, history and logic: The loafer with a light Italian leisure suit, in summer material like linen or cotton. Although a suit, it is clearly worn for leisure, and goes well with a loafer. As Will said (17 October), the leisure suit is underappreciated these days by many. And this is the one type of suit that can prompt one to take the loafer out of the shoe cupboard.

santy567 said...

have anyone seen the film 8 1/2? Mastroianni wears a dark suit, overcoat, suspenders and a hat.
he wears a pair of loafers through out the film, never looking affected.

 
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