A man's black tie is supposed to be made from the same stuff as his jacket's lapels, something that is easier said than done these days. The single breasted and the smoking have matching ties but the lapels of the pictured DB DJ are unfortunately considerably duller than any grosgrain bow in the wardrobe, and the tailor responsible for making that coat will not sew one for me. So begins the task of finding a tie maker who will supply a couple of sized bows in Richard James Weldon's corded silk number 300/2.
If a man is going to the trouble to wear evening clothes in the first place, he should invest in a sized tie or two. Made to the correct length for his neck, the sized bow has no need for the bulk of the one size fits all version. That is particularly important with a to-attach shirt collar that will leave an adjustable tie buckle out in plain view of the entire ballroom.
And while one is at it, match the tie and lapels.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Mis-Matched Grosgrain
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12 comments:
Am having a new set of evening clothes made and my old tie does not match my new lapels either in color or gauge.
No worries said the kind man in the bespoke department at T&A in NYC whom you pictured a few weeks ago. You provide us the cloth, and we'll make you a matching tie and cumberbund. My tailor, also pictured on your blog was happy to oblige providing some extra cloth.
Hi Will. If you have the chance, here is a two-part question.
As I think I've mentioned in the past, I'm getting married this December. Four of my six groomsmen own tuxedoes. Mine is single breasted with one button and peaked lapels. I will wear a tie in grosgrain to match the suit's facings. I cannot say what the configurations are of the groomsmen's suits. Assuming they are black and not clownish, does it matter?
It's all to take place in Chicago, which could be as inhospitable as a very distant star in December, although I distinctly recall a spat of balmy days last holiday season. For this reason, I am considering an overcoat in covert cloth with a velvet collar--it should provide just enough of a barrier to take me from church to reception should it be arctic, but not out of place should it be merely cool. The question is: is covert cloth acceptable with formalwear, and if so, must it be black or is dark grey (with aforementioned velvet in black) fine?
Best,
F.
I would claim sprezzatura, but it is nice when the two match.
Give Carrot & Gibbs a try @
www.greatbows.com
They make all of their neck ties and bow ties on site in Boulder, Colorado. I'm sure they would make a tie with your fabric.
Best Regards,
MC in Denver
Great to see a DB dinner jacket. For me, they knock the SB varietes into a cocked top hat.
Will, speaking of ballrooms and bowties, what do you think of this particular variant on the bowtie worn with a double breasted dinner jacket?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oYh1ycMTAs
Frederick, assuming they are black or midnight blue and not clownish, it shouldn't matter. The point of evening dress is that the uniform leaves the stage to the ladies.
But if you want a velvet-collared overcoat, I suggest a Chesterfield. If the style is right and you use charcoal covert cloth, no-one will notice. But don't get a charcoal covert coat - the stitching is inapproproate.
DB, I will guess that Astaire wore that tie to add to the motion of his dance. It might be a bit much for ordinary mortals.
Frederick,
Congratulations! May your days together be long and happy.
As Will has pointed out elsewhere, it's best if the groomsmen are not wearing matching clothes, so it's great they have their own tuxedos (with the "no bozos" caveat, of course).
Your wedding will be after 6, I presume? Is it also safe to assume that you'll all be wearing bow ties?
If you want a hat for the Chicago cold, a black homburg is considered correct for wearing with a tuxedo.
Best of luck to you!
I'm puzzled as to why a tailor who can construct an item as labor intensive as a tuxedo would not agree to produce a matching bow tie. Surely it cannot be due to difficulty?
My name's Bond, James Bond.
This was said in an accent from "Brum"
P.S I'm putting up an article bout Harris Tweed and Fair isles on THE WORLD on blogger
There is no question that David at Sam Hober Ties (http://www.samhober.com) could make you something. Any chance you could get extra fabric from your tailor and send it to him?
I'll remember this when I have my first tux made (which, too, will be when I get married).
Beau Ties Ltd. will make this, but you will have to send them the material as they have no grosgrain or black faille.
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