A package arrived from Cumbria the other day containing the suit Thomas Mahon fitted this past July, just in time for the end of the season.
Intended for our San Francisco "summers" where temperatures rarely reach 75f (24c), the suit is made from Smiths' 11 ounce/330 gram Finmeresco. Finmeresco is smoother than other high twist fabrics of my experience, but that comes with a price as it does not seem to circulate air quite as well. In practice that will not be an issue as most wear will occur on days that are sunny but not hot. 
After this one time out, the suit will be going back to have its full lining replaced with one that better complements a garment meant for mild weather. That will put it back in circulation about the time that sunny days return to the Bay area.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
A Sunny Day Suit
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11 comments:
Curious, two buttons unbuttoned on your left cuff, none on your right one... maybe because you wear your watch on left wrist?
Leaving your sleeve buttons undone for any particular reason?
leaving buttons undone show that a suit has surgeon cuffs, which traditionally was an indicator of a bespoke suit. if you left one button unbuttoned, some people would take that for a missing button, when it is actually not.
cheers
Nothing intentional. It must have arrived that way.
Will, first of all, the suit looks great, especially with those shoes---
I recall you posted some time ago that you've never received a bespoke garment which came out exactly as you had commissioned it. Aside from the lining, is there anything else which you would have liked done differently with the suit?
Lastly, the sleeves seem somewhat fuller than the other tailored outfits you've posted in the past. Was this a specific request, or just Mahon's style?
Very nice. Good tip on the smoother quality of finmeresco. I have a high twist suiting, which I like, it wears cool and resists wrinkles quite well. Some mornings, however, when I look at its more rustic look it gives me pause if the day might call for a bit more formality such as from a conventional worsted. As you once wrote,"next time ask to see the Smith Woolens."
PS what were the shoes?
i really love the drape of the trousers on the Mahon suit.
Interesting post thanks Will.
Hypothetical for you; if you lived in a steamy tropical climate like Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong what fabric would you choose?
Would you go for a super 130/140s and up or choose a wool/mohair or wool/linen or something else entirely.
I love wearing jackets /suits but I live in a hot climate and hate the discomfort of sweating.
I had a similar one made in Italy but with only teo buttons (DB)shown.this is called a Semi drape
Reilly, they have double pleats.
BDC, only the lining. I don't think the sleeves are actually fuller. It is difficult to tell from photos.
Floreat, start with fresco and linen. I might also look at very lightweight (6-7 ounces) cloth from merchants like Harrison's but I have no personal experience with it.
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