In my opinion, the tweed topcoat should get more respect. Single breasted, with raglan sleeves like the coat on the right in the Esquire illustration, a ghillie collar, slash pockets and turnback sleeve cuffs, it is good looking, hard wearing, warm and rain resistant. It is cost effective as well, since the simple construction of the raglan sleeves means made to measure versions are effectively indistinguishable from bespoke and the entire coat can be made on a sewing machine.
Tweed topcoats have been a wardrobe staple for travel for nearly a century, performing the same functions as a lined raincoat with considerably more panache. Executed in patterns on blue, gray or brown grounds, they are a reasonable length that is not too heavy for wear in a conveyance. And on a trip, the same coat looks fine over denim and boots as well as oxfords and a suit.
A man looking for appropriate topcoat cloth should focus on Donegals, Cheviots and other suiting tweeds in weights ranging from 15 to 18 ounces (450 to 540 grams). Most tailors will ask for the same amount that they require for a jacket and trousers, but be sure to add 10% for pattern matching.
And that is the practical tweed topcoat.
Friday, October 30, 2009
The Practical Tweed Topcoat
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2 comments:
Having one in Donegal, maybe something in one of these http://www.elliot-weave.co.uk/tweeds/donegal.html could be just the ticket for a long, slow journey to moderate climes.
These currently are hard to find OTR except
in the most traditional shops. A variation,
which is even more practical, but with some
sacrifice of warmth, is the reversible Balmacaan:
half raincoat, half tweed topcoat. I've always
wanted one of these, but I can't justify it in my
local climate. And when I travel, I have a pristine overcoat and similar greatcoat. O'Connell's
carries a reversible in limited sizes from Invertere, a firm recently out of business.
http://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/outerwear.php
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