Heavy tweed takes a few wearings for the shoulders and collar to settle in and until it does the jacket to this 15 ounce/450 gram suit will keep coming off the back of my neck. The weather is a little too warm for the full regalia, so here is the jacket during the break-in process.
Brown glen check jacket with red overcheck worn with brown bluchers, gray flannel trousers, a blue royal oxford shirt, a silk square and a navy cashmere knit necktie.
Monday, November 2, 2009
The Brown Glen Check
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11 comments:
Will, can you explain the weight of a cloth? Does the weight, 15 oz in this jacket, refer to the weight per square yard?
What a great combination! I wore an almost identical one today. But don't worry, I was a continent away, and in a different time zone.
My variation was a ecru shirt, black knit tie, orange ground silk pocket square,and a light gray sleeveless cardigan. Though my jacket is part of a suit, so not really an odd jacket.
I try to keep this odd jacket possibility when making a casual suit... Gray flannel slacks in the city, the complete casual suit in the country. It's cheating, I know, but I find it may help folks approach and appreciate the casual suit and realize the flexibility of gray flannel trousers.
The degree of openness of your jacket's quarters is ideal, to my way of thinking. I may use this as a template when I get serious about ordering something new -Aaron
That’s a very handsome cloth and particularly flattering for your coloring. I recall seeing it at an earlier stage and wishing to see the finished article. Thank you. It makes a fine suit and serves just as well as an odd jacket. Also like the flannel of your trousers unusually well.
Sean, suiting cloth is usually woven 60" wide. 15 ounces means a length that's a yard long and 60" wide.
Will: I like the combo. I note that your shirt cuffs do not extend beyond you jacket sleeves. I've noted from few (I believe to be reputable sources) that it is preferable to show up to 1/2 inch. Does your opinion differ? Thanks in advance.
Some English tailors are less sensitive to showing cuff than Americans but that is not the case here. The photographer was shooting from six feet up on a mound and the angle is why you see no shirt.
Will,
I am an avid follower of your site and advice. I appreciate your efforts to share.
If you don't mind,could you please provide advice on the following:
1. Where, anatomically, should a properly fitting shirt sleeve "hit" on one's wrist/hand?
2. Does the TYPE of shirt (french vs. barrel) cuff make a difference to your answer to No. 1 above?
3. Where, anatomically,should a properly fitted suit sleeve "hit" on one's wrist/hand?
I know the old adage that one should "show about a 1/2"of sleeve", but I find that to be lacking in actual practice.
Thanks,
Sams
Wrist bone for the jacket and base of the hand for the shirt Salvatore.
Will, in the previous post you mentioned a dearth of photographs of Noel Coward in his trademark brown. Here he is in a brown glen plaid:
http://www.selections.com/L804/noel-coward-mad-about-the-boy/
I like the fullness of cut on your flannel, what make of cloth is this, please?
The cloth is a one-off tweed by Lovat Mill for London Lounge.
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