Joe Hemrajani of MyTailor.com is in the City this week and we spent a pleasant afternoon talking about fabrics and shirts, particularly David and John Anderson's Zephir 170 Lino. The Lino is a 50/50 cotton and linen mix with a great hand and an open weave for warm weather.
Joe has been wearing the Lino these past spring and summer, and was enthusiastic about how well it does all the warm weather things it is supposed to do while resisting wrinkles. And indeed, an orchid gingham came out of his suitcase and unfolded without the well-defined creases that all linen shirt-wearers become accustomed to.
Further attracting my interest, the Lino offerings include an assortment of stripes and checks in identical dye lots, which offers the adventuresome an opportunity to do unusual things. I had been thinking about a blue on white striped shirt with vertical stripes for the body and horizontal stripes for the collar and cuffs, and I will probably complement one of those with another where the body is candy striped and the collar pencil striped in the same color.
Fancy shirts!
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Fancy Shirts
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11 comments:
They sound like beautiful fabrics, Will. And while I have no experience with the Lino fabric, I do have one very inexpensive casual shirt with the same blend of fibers. It is roughly as cool and absorbent as all linen, with much the same drape, yet it wrinkles surprisingly less than either an all-cotton, or all-linen shirt of same weight and weave would.
Dear Will,
I am a new reader of your blog; I very much enjoy your posts.
I have a question regarding white shirts and My Tailor. (I thought I would post my comment under this post since it is at least in the shirts category.)
I have an appointment with Mr. Hemrajani when he visits New York next month.
I am a new attorney in New York. I want to start out on the right track -- with custom tailored shirts. (Suits and shoes will follow.)
Can you recommend a fabric with which I might design 6-8 white shirts for the office? Do you recommend that I design all white shirts with the same fabric? Or is it smarter to get a mix (of weights, weaves, etc.?)
Your advice is very much appreciated.
Don't do that Will !
what a nice suit he is wearing, looks perfect with the vest.
Andrew, get three pick and pick and three broadcloth or poplin. These are all-weather shirtings that come in several quality levels so suit your own budget. I think the Thomas Masons are a good combination of value and quality.
Now or later, add a couple royal oxford or twill for cool days and a couple cotton and linen for hot ones.
Thank you for your suggestion Will.
Andrew: And remember that if you buy eight, you get a ninth one for free!
Does your firm require white only? Light blue, lavender, and pink look good with most skin tones...
Will,
Based on your prior positive posts, I also had an appointment with Joe here in SF on Tuesday. I ordered 7 shirts and 2 trousers to start off with and will explore more shirtings, odd jackets, etc. from here. I enjoyed the experience and Joe is a true gentleman. I am looking forward to my first shirt arriving sometime next month.
Mark
Will,
I have a peacoat that I wear quite regularly in the fall and winter. It gets the most wear out of the coats in my wardrobe, but I'm considering purchasing a full length top coat.
Would you consider a full length top coat to be more suitable/appropriate for wearing with a suit to the office? I typically wear the pea coat, but I'm reconsidering it as my primary outerwear.
Thanks,
-G
the really great linen of the 80's was Irish and it was that linen used exclusively in Milan. I remember but a linen shirt that was so sheer it was perfect for the hottest Milanese days. This linen ,has disappeared. Its almost impossible to find it in Milan now.Its been replaced by a Chinese linen (this still costs loads of money) that loses the reason for wearing linen in Summer as its too thick
Will,
I met with Joe during this same visit for the first time and was very pleased with the experience. Joe seemed very careful, taking lots of measurements and giving a few key bits of advice, such as the desirability of lighter wool suiting in San Francisco. Soon the clothes (I bought a lot of stuff) will arrive, starting with a test suit and shirt, to verify the measurements. Hopefully waiting.
-Mike
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