Simon Cundey and Alex Cooke (that is he in the background) of Henry Poole & Co. visited San Francisco's Huntington Hotel this week. In the second half of the nineteenth century Poole was perhaps the greatest society tailor that ever has been, and it remains a pillar of Savile Row. Cundey's suit in the photo exemplifies Poole's middle of the road house style that lies mid-way between London's soft drape and hard military-style extremes.
For this visit I had in mind a Norfolk jacket for winter days out of doors but, after perusing half a dozen of tweed merchant's W. Bill's books, realized my heart was set on a cloth seen in Scotland the previous summer and decided to locate that fabric number in order to commission it at a future date.
Instead, I elected to order a classic English blazer in a 14 ounce/420 gram hopsack. It will be double breasted, with Poole's dark red signature lining, six gilt Nelson buttons on the front and four on each sleeve, and slanted pockets without flaps. The blazer is to my mind a most useful jacket for evenings in these casual times and a wardrobe can usefully contain several of them.
We will see the first cut of this coat in London in January.