A reader wrote the other day, asking how a boldly checked piece of tweed that I subscribed to a few days ago could make a wearable country suit. And since the cloth in question is based on a suit worn by the late Duke of Windsor after the War, perhaps this 1966 photo of the Duke himself will help me to explain.
If we can agree that woolen suits in solid colors are really city suits at heart, then there are two types of country suits for cool weather. The first, every man of some substance should own. It is a relatively conservative item for Sunday services and the like, in black and white Donegal, brown and cream houndstooth or some other relatively conservative pattern. But it is the other kind that is of greater interest, and it is considerably rarer. That of course is a bolder tweed that can be made into trousers as well as jackets. It is usually woven in a big check and a 15 ounce/450 gram weight in a traditional blend-into-the-hillside pattern that can be worn indoors, unlike the 18 and 20 ounce/540 and 600 gram stuff that was never meant for centrally heated spaces.
Now I will grant you that not every man will be comfortable wearing a tan suit with sky blue and forest green overchecks, or one that appears pink and blue like the Duke's, but my experience is that, properly blended with conservative accessories, they attract less attention than any state of the art fashion from Comme des Garcons. In fact, it used to be said that differentiating the well dressed man from the ordinary was the former's ability to wear strong patterns without being overwhelmed by them.
Done properly, bolder is better.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Bolder is Better
Photo: Popperphoto/Getty Images
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7 comments:
How would you accessorize a black and white donegal, besides, say for example, the rather English looking ecru/cream with burgundy tatersall check shirt and dark burgundy tie?
That is an extraordinary suit the Duke is wearing. Then again, he was known to favor bold patterns; he is said to have written, "I believe in bright checks for sportsmen. The louder they are, the better I like them."
I love the pinkish-brown cocoa of his suit, a shade that has not been popular in the US since the 1950s. Time for a revival?
Excellent post. Thank you for the image and the explanation. I might just subscribe to this myself.
I lack the proper country suits for the weekend. Often, I resort to a gray chalk flannel stripe or grey glen plaid for mass during the winter and a tan glen plaid or solid linen suit for attending mass in the summer.
Cheers and thank you again,
CFC
Does it bother you that Windsor was basically a repugnant human being? Or are you able to take your dress cues from him without feeling like you've associated yourself in any other way?
Worrying about Windsor's personality or his politics is irrelevant. Name a highly accomplished men in any field and we can usually if not always find some part of their life where they acted reprehensibly.
Hi Will,
Thank you again. I noticed that the suit the Duke is wearing is side vented. I normally have my suits tailored with side vents also. I am thinking of ordering this tweed but I think it begs to be center hook vented. After all a center vent is much more appropriate on horseback and that was the point of a country suit wasn't it?
I am considering the LL Tweed, sack constructed, center hook vent, a typical American suit but with an English country tweed twist? Thoughts? Vested of course since it can get a bit chilly running about on horseback.
Cheers,
CFC
I tend to agree with ZD Smith.
Although Edward had undoubted style I can help but see a self indulgent edge to it that can unfortunately also be seen quite clearly in the decisions he made as Prince of Wales and King.
To this end in my eyes his style can't be disconnected from the man as it gives too clear an insight to him.
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