Wednesday, January 20, 2010

A Ducal Tweed

I wrote some days ago about a current subscription of the London Lounge Cloth Club and thought readers might enjoy seeing the early twentieth century original and the modern interpretation of the cloth.

In its original form, the tweed worn by the late Duke of Windsor in the unattributed photo was a gift in the then-pattern of one of the Scottish estates. The Duke wore the suit made from it for several decades and though any color photographs seem to be lost the pattern was described several times in letters and articles from the period.


Michael Alden of the London Lounge took the descriptions of the cloth and worked with what I think of as the best tweed mill remaining in Scotland to produce the sample pattern in the photograph. It weighs 14/15 ounces (420-450 grams) and combines green, brown and light blue checks on a tan ground, which will make a country suit that is distinctive without frightening the birds.

Tweed mills are generally set up for short runs of cloth, as much of their business historically came from Scottish estates who were clothing the owners and their staff. Where worsted mills have minimums of hundreds of meters of cloth, tweed mills ask for as little as 40 meters. That makes bespoke runs practical when a small group of men can agree on a common objective.

Kudos to Mr. Alden for helping keep these traditions alive.

Tweed photo: Michael Alden

9 comments:

bryan1883 said...

Will,
Which mill is the cloth from?

Horatio said...

The suit in this picture looks remarkably similar to the one featured in Bolder is Better, and at first, I couldn't tell the difference. However, closer examination reveals the check to be even larger on this suit than the check of cocoa-pink suit.

Beautiful material. What kind of a suit are you going to get made with it?

Will said...

Lovat Mill.

Hard to say Horatio. It won't go to a tailor until sometime in 2011 and I'll probably change my mind a time or two before then.

Jake said...

Will,
I may be wrong, but in the picture it looks as if the jacket is worn with what I suppose you could call a '2-roll-1' button stance. Is this a different cut of jacket to allow it to be worn in this way?

Variété said...

Is it possible to buy a piece of it for a sport coat? No tailors in Montreal have heavy tweed like this on hand.

Will said...

Jakes, that is one of the Duke's paddock coats. He's not wearing it fully buttoned but it's usually a two roll two. One button is above the waist and the other below it. JFK wore the same design.

Variete, contact Michael Alden at the London Lounge.

2bsure said...

It might be a great fabric and interesting tailoring but he looks terrible.

How old was he at the time

Variété said...

Thanks Will. I went for a LLTW17 tweed.

Big BAD Benny said...

I'm wondering if any tweed fans know the name of a tweed similar to the Duke's, it's a light blue check on camel, and surely a classic?

 
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