This stuff is not easy, but a search for well dressed contemporary public figures in the world has turned up a couple that I will present for your consideration in the coming week. As always, the focus is only on a man's dress. Saint or sinner, other personal characteristics are irrelevant.
Our first new style icon became visible as the head of the house of Valentino after it was acquired by his family company in 2002, and though he was not treated with either sympathy or respect in Valentino Garavani's documentary The Last Emperor, Matteo Marzotto consistently presents a well dressed image to the world.
Marzotto displays a commitment to well-cut and slightly informal lounge suits that works well for him. His combination of wardrobe depth and quiet taste makes him a contemporary example of good dress.
Photos: Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images and Turismo finanza
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12 comments:
Will,
As an aspiring dresser, I can't disagree with your selection of the elegant Mr Marzotto. His choices are always tasteful and appropriate.
Great post Will. Interestingly, from what I have seen he enjoys pairing darker jackets with lighter ties.
“This stuff is not easy” Most certainly! And harder every day.
But Mr. Marzotto puts himself together beautifully. There is a good deal of subtlety that goes into this sort of relaxed elegance. And it is the note for which I strive. But still, his choices would often be wrong for me, though they are just right for him.
I have never seen a ticket pocket on a double breasted suit before (first photo). Any thoughts?
In the second shot, the gentleman with your subject shows why it's so important to button your jacket when standing--and makes Mr. Marzotto all the more dapper in comparison.
As long as we're on the subject of ticket pockets--an almost-unknown feature in suits and jackets of my acquaintance--the only one I've ever handled was shallow. Is this typical? I somehow imagined them deep enough to handle an airplane ticket.
The soft shoulders of his double breasted suits give him a very natural V shape silhouette. Nice...I don't care for the extremely wide lapels though, but he pulls it off well.
http://www.curatorofdcstyle.com
Having button-holes on both lapels seems to be a quirk of Mr Marzotto (judging purely on the two pictures here).
I don't know if it's something I would choose for myself, but I do think it looks quite interesting, and is clearly a very personal choice, which is always something to be admired.
Horatio, a ticket pocket should be large enough to comfortably take an electronic car key. That's the application I use them for anyway.
On DB jackets they are neither common nor uncommon. I have one jacket with a jetted ticket pocket.
Jake, DB jackets should always have two lapel buttonholes.
Will - I'm not sure you're correct. Gieves and Hawkes does not appear to favour two buttonholes, neither does Henry Poole, although I'm sure either would do them if asked. None of my DB blazers or suits have two, and I have never had to request this specifically of any tailor.
That said, on looking at a few photos, they do appear to be more common than I had previously thought. Odd that I had never noticed before. My first thought for a man who knows about double breasted jackets was the Prince of Wales and he does, indeed, appear generally to have two buttonholes.
Jake, I have no comment about anything Gieves may do but I own literally dozens of DB suits from four Savile Row tailors and they all have two lapel buttonholes. I've never asked for them, though I would have complained had they been missing. They date back to the closure on the uniform jacket that was the military predecessor to the DB.
Yes he is has a great style.
http://welldressed.blogg.se/2009/june/matteo-marzotto.html
One thing I love about MM is his sloping shoulders, which with superb tailoring look like the standard of male physical perfection.
Will
in both suits there are construction issues that should never have been tolerated. In the beige suit, the sleeve heads are not correctly put in, with some waves, especially the left sleeve head. In the grey suit, the lapels are not re-enforced enough as the tips are beginning to sag a bit (note the wave in the right lapel) and the waves that are occurring in the left lapel. He may be stylish as far as colour combinations may be concerned but the fit and finish are not perfect and when one pays that much for a suit it had better be perfect. Anything less is a style faux pas and begs the question of why did the taylor let that one out...
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