There are two kinds of tailors, in my opinion, and I am planning to switch.
You see, most men do not have many special requirements for their clothes. They want garments that are well cut and fit. That is as far as it goes, and most very good tailors develop a house style to serve those customers. They become so accustomed to turning out the same, for example, 6x2 double breasteds that they lose their ability to make anything more than minor changes. So if a client wants a 4x1, just for the sake of argument, he gets either a refusal (usually accompanied by a turned up nose as if to say the request is in something less than impeccable taste despite having been worn by a significant fraction of the English aristocracy) or delivery of the same 6x2 that the tailor is accustomed to making.
Now, this is perfectly understandable. The first type of tailor has a perfected pattern for his 6x2 and can turn them out when semi-conscious. He may not have so much as made a 4x1 before, and doing so would mean time spent experimenting with the pattern and perhaps even wasting cloth in order to get it right. Time being money, he would rather cut another 6x2.
The second type of tailor will also make a perfectly fine 6x2 double breasted, though he will usually charge a bit more for it. And the premium exists in large part because the second type of tailor stands ready to make what the customer requests. 4x1 DB? Of course, sir, and would you like that with patch pockets?
This willingness to cut the odd patch, flap and bellows pocket is what separates the two types of tailors in my book. And now that I have accumulated what by any reasonable standard is a surfeit of conventional bespoke clothing, my wants grow increasingly exotic. So this year I will be venturing further afield in a search for a new relationship with someone who will make what I want, and do it impeccably.
So the next time I visit London, I plan to seek out Terry Haste, the former head cutter at Huntsman that author Nick Foulkes swears by (and Nick certainly possesses an assortment of one of a kind clothes to complement his proper London worsteds). I will take a look at Richard Anderson, also ex-Huntsman. I will visit Tommy Caraceni in Rome, though I doubt if those logistics will work out. And I plan a trip to Naples in the spring to visit London House, home base for Mariano Rubinacci (in the photograph).
I will have my 4x1 DB. I just need the second type of tailor.