Admittedly, young preppies may wear theirs with jeans and a sweater but for most men the Chesterfield outercoat is the most formal coat they will ever own. If indeed they own one, for the black velvet collar is becoming rarer and rarer.
Dating back to the Victorian era, the Chesterfield is typically a three button fly fronted single breasted (though the 6x2 DB is perfectly acceptable) in navy or charcoal plain or herringbone wool. It may or may not have a black velvet collar and can sport either notch or peak lapels (like those on Roger Moore's coat in the photo from the film Live and Let Die) with peak preferred if the coat is to be worn with black tie. Since it began life as a very long coat, and though shorter versions are seen from time to time, a Chesterfield should ideally fall a couple inches below the wearer's knee. Finally, its sack coat-like lack of waist suppression makes it a great candidate for made to measure construction rather than bespoke tailoring, at a savings of perhaps 40%.
I call the Chesterfield an outercoat because it can be made as either an overcoat or a topcoat, depending on its intended use. An overcoat will typically have 21-22 ounce cloth (650 grams) and a topcoat only 18 (540 grams). The heavier weight may be worn on colder days but the topcoat is better suited to temperatures ranging from freezing to cool.
When it is not layered over jeans and a sweater, the Chesterfield seems most at home under a dark homburg hat. Gray suede or yellow chamois gloves are the smartest choice in my opinion, and the velvet collar is at its best accompanying a scarf in silk paisley during the day. The white scarf with fringed ends makes a good partner at night so long as it is removed when the coat is checked.
Ready to wear Chesterfields are, very generally, priced from $1,000 to $2,000 (£800-1,000) if they can be found. Made to measure versions offer considerably more design flexibility and run $2,000-$2500 (£1,300) while bespoke coats tend to be about $3200 (£2,000).
My own preferred Chesterfield specification is the single breasted in charcoal herringbone, with black velvet collar and peak lapels. Spot that coat on the street and I may well be the man wearing it. But I will most likely not be wearing jeans.
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
The Chesterfield Outercoat
Photo: Live and Let Die
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12 comments:
Great articulation of the Chesterfield and how it should be worn. However, there are much less expensive ready-to-wear options out there for men to choose from. Brooks Brothers Black Fleece has an option for less than $1000 and J. Crew offers a well made coat for around $300.
See more here: http://www.primermagazine.com/2010/spend/five-winter-outerwear-essentials-for-men
and here: http://imagegranted.blogspot.com/2009/12/dc-whiteout.html
Dear Will
I very much like wearing Chesterfields and appreciate this article about a style that is indeed on the brink of extinction, as so many other traditionally elegant styles, for being considered "too formal".
I am not sure though I agree with your assertion that a "sack coat-like lack of waist suppression" is typical for a Chesterfield. This may be true for the prevalent US cut but certainly in the British tailoring tradition, Chesterfields are usually rather fitted.
V
Would it be acceptable to add a half-belt to a bespoke Chesterfield to add a little more to the silhouette?
I guess fall into that "young preppy" category you describe and definitely enjoy wearing my chesterfield with jeans. Occasionally, and you may cringe Will, I've gone out with just a t-shirt underneath.
Thanks for pointing out the more traditional ways to wear one for those of us still developing our sartorial style.
I didn't know that Roger Moore's coat still counted as a Chesterfield. On his, the length falls just at the knee, making it a bit short. But I'm sure the short length helped him when he was swinging around on the fire escape.
Thank you, Will, for mentioning this gem! Also having owned a dark navy Chesterfied, single-breasted and quite far below the knees, I can vouch for its compatibility with my dark blue Homburg indeed. Lounge suits or Black Tie go very well with it - the black velvet collar a beautiful contrast. I always wore English-made versions, and they were all quite fitted and not sack-like. My favourite type of coat!
Chesterfields are the unsung hero in my wardrobe for the final finishing touch. My favorite being a charcoal herringbone with a half belt bought in London in the early 80's. It is comfortable, as you stated Will, with the sack coat fit and that air of a "formal slouch" about it. It still wears as if it was just brought out of the box.
I don't think Chesterfields will become entirely extinct just yet - at least not here in Brighton on the south coast of the UK - the natural home of the 'Mods' - where some very reasonable items are still available :-
http://www.jumpthegun.co.uk/shop/Product/Index/21
Items this cheap will only remain available though whilst they are in vogue with the fashion set and presently very structured outerclothing with a military bearing is very much the thing. Let's just hope that style will outmode fashion!
charles tyrwitt has one for 175
marks and spencer has a 100 per cent cashmere one for 400 pounds
Nice to see that early Roger Moore era Bond wasn't a complete sartorial disaster.
Mine is a beautiful vintage vicuna blend I found a while back. The basic coat is holding up extremely well, but the collar has started to fray. Do you have any suggestions for where I might be able to find velvet of suitable quality?
I've always wanted a Chesterfield coat and still love the the design.
I recently read in A Gentleman's Wardrobe that the black velvet collar dates to the French Revolution when gentlemen in other countries wanted to show their sympathy with the executed bourgeoisie and added a black collar.
Given that I'm more in favor with the rebels than the aristocracy, I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable wearing the coat.
Academic really as I had no real plans on buying one.
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