Lined Sixfold Neckties

Most men have heard of seven-fold neckties, that expensive construction where the tie is made entirely from a square yard of silk folded seven times to give it its body. The problem of course with seven-folds is that they tend to twist during wear, and they wrinkle easily.

The standard four-in-hand necktie is a three-fold, where about half a yard of silk (called the envelope) is folded over a (usually) wool interlining. Less silk means a significantly lower price.

Depending on the weight of the silk and the quality of the interlining used in the construction, the performance of the three-fold necktie during wear varies quite a bit from maker to maker, The best makers, such as Charvet and Michael Drake, use heavier silk to improve the wear characteristics of their ties. Those same makers generally make or, at a minimum, finish their ties by hand, improving the quality of the necktie and also increasing its cost.

High end ties must be finished by hand because of they are made with a longitudinal thread called the slip stitch. The "play" provided by a slip stitch allows a tie the flexibility it needs to retain its shape over time, and so remain wearable for more years than its width is likely to remain fashionable.

The best version of the slip-stitched necktie in the opinion of most high-end tiemakers is what is known as a lined six-fold, where the seven-fold's square yard of silk is folded over a wool interlining. The weight of the resulting tie means a lined six-fold tends to drape significantly better than either of its brethren, and wrinkle less.

A Suitable Wardrobe's Online Haberdashery offers high-quality three-fold ties from Michael Drake as well as lined six-folds from E&G Cappelli of Naples. In between the price points for these is a new selection of hand finished lined six-folds from England that drape beautifully. The gray wool and silk striped tie in the center of the photo is one example, and it has quickly become the tie I reach for most often. $150 per necktie.