Friday, March 26, 2010

The Decalogue of E. Marinella


1- As in all the things, also for tie it is a matter of size: the correct one stays between 8.5 and 9.5 cms at the widest point.

2- The knot: it’s important to learn to do it without tightening too much, avoid the effect “hung.” Always untie it in the evening and hang the tie well stretched during the night.

3- Using the correct material: silk jaquard for the regimental, lighter silk model foulard for the printed cloth, pattern for the ties with an elegant tone, striped wool or Scottish patterns for winter sporting clothing.

4- A tie for every occasion: in the morning prefer a light colour and patterned tie, in the evening opt for a darker tie.

5- Don't take advice and don’t remit the choice of the tie to anybody: the only rule is to follow the instinct. Choosing the tie has to be an irrational action.

6- The instinct has to follow a certain logic, too. Absolutely avoid: too wide and showy patterns, ties with an only central pattern but also too pale and anonymous ones. Remember that the tie reveals the personality.

7- To prefer: even tint ties in definite colours, small patterns (pois, lozenges, little squares, rhombus, small cashmere prints), transversal lines of two or three colours at the most.

8- The colours: the tie must stand out against the suit and the shirt, without clashing. It must be of a colour darker than the shirt’s one and more intense than the jacket’s one. It’s often the only coloured note of a serious clothing, but pay attention not to exaggerate! Avoid the pea green, the canary yellow as the fire red and the sugared almond pink. Darker colours, but not anonymous: the bordeaux and the dark red, the blue, the green and the brown.

9- The combining with the shirt is a mine-field where only the good taste can drive you: avoid however the overlap of a tie with a thick pattern on a squared shirt or the combining “all-stripes” of a regimental tie, stripes shirt and jacket in operated material.

10- Never the coordinated tie + small pocket handkerchief: it is as useless as anachronistic affectation. Always avoid to have a too cared and affected comprehensive look and opt for an decontractée (relaxed) elegance.

Eugenio Marinella was the founder of the eponymous Neopolitan necktie maker, and the grandfather of the current proprietor.

9 comments:

Turling said...

I may have to print that and post it inside the wall of my closet.

seitelman said...

Will, Bown has his Ten Commandments of Dressing. Now Marinella has his Ten Commandments on Ties.

When will you deliver your Ten?

lgcintra said...

Will,

Do you know where can we buy Marinella ties in the US? I have sent them a message asking for dealers in America but got no reply...

Thank you.

Will said...

Mark, I understand that I must have someone climb a mountain for me first. Fortunately, my friend Jonathan is practicing his alpinism.

Lgcintra, Bergdorf Goodman in New York has them.

Laguna Beach Trad said...

Words by which to live.

FIXED BAYONET METAL SOLDIERS said...

never follow marinella's advice

rjmanbearpig said...

Jacquard for regimentals? Isn't silk repp usually used for the diagonally striped ties we consider to be regimentals?

Will said...

I take no responsibility for the translation.

Brummagem Joe said...

I love it and agree with them all except one....the stricture against pink ties

 
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