Neapolitan trousermaker Salvatore Ambrosi is visiting San Francisco for the first time (he will be in New York later in the week) and half a dozen men took him to dinner. Business was conducted first.
They fit perfectly of course but the Ambrosi trouser looks like other trousers from the exterior. Only when one looks inside does the workmanship become apparent.
The differences begin with the color coordinated waistband. And instead of the typical two button waist fastening, Ambrosi trousers have four (in addition to the button fly), so the front of the trouser maintains its shape better during wear. 
The trouser cuffs also have buttons, on the inside, so they can be opened and brushed clean of accumulated dust.
$700 a pair, including standard cloth, for hand sewn trousers (the linen trousers in the photos were about $100 more). Potential clients should contact Ambrosi on Facebook, or, with somewhat less reliability, at salvatore.ambrosi@virgilio.it.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Hand Sewn Trousers
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5 comments:
Ah, yes, linen pents. A must.
Will: your pant drape is always superb....I notice that you have
2" cuffs which I think is one of the reasons.....quite honestly I couldn't bring myself to spend 800 bucks on a pair of odd pants although I usually spend around 450for OTP and I invariably have problems getting the break and drape right at places like Paul Stuart....it once took three attempts to get it right (and like you I've discovered the efficacy of the 2" cuff)
As long as the subject has been broached, I might as well ask:
Will, could you tell us about pant cuffs, please? Some people like 2", others 1.75", but I have none exceeding 1.5".
What are the advantages and disadvantages of differing cuff heights? I always thought it was a matter of proportion: smaller cuffs for shorter men. Am I mistaken?
"but I have none exceeding 1.5"."
.....so as you know it's related to height....is 1.75" appropriate for your height.....only the really petite guy should have cuffs under 1.75" under any circumstances....After being at this figure forever (I'm 6') I've switched to 2" over the past few years and it may sound crazy but it really makes a difference to how pants drape and it's not noticeable which is another criteria for cuff appearance.
Thanks, Brummagem Joe. I'll try a 1.75" cuff on my next pair.
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