Anyone who has not seen the 1981 Granada Television version of Brideshead Revisited recently may wish to revisit the series, if only to look at the clothing. Costume designer Jane Robinson's work is both subtle and true to the period.
For example, both Charles Ryder, the upper middle class narrator, and Sebastian Flyte, his aristocratic friend, wear tailored clothing. But Flyte obviously has a better tailor than Ryder, whose suits and jackets are consistently more awkward.
I am particularly fond of the second episode, covering the pair's summer visit to Venice in the 1920s. It has a palette of the tans and creams of the season, complemented by the largest assortment of silk neck wraps, which predated day cravates or ascots, ever seen on television (Take a 36" silk square and fold it into a triangle. Wrap it twice around the neck and tie a square knot in front of the throat. Bring the triangle over the knot and adjust to suit).
The awareness of clothing in the series extends to the script. In the first episode, Ryder comes to Oxford for the first time and is given a word of advice by his older cousin. And that is to wear country clothes but eschew odd jackets and flannels in favor of suits.
Eminently suitable for those in need of a clothing fix.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Revisiting Brideshead
Photo: Granada Television/Everett Collection
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9 comments:
I really cannot emphasise how great this episode (in fact the whole series) is. The Venetian scenes are undoubtedly the highlight but also Sebastian’s navy suit, with trousers cut (in my opinion) properly, being quite high at the waist, and the ‘wine tasting’ scene of course.
"The awareness of clothing in the series extends to the script. In the first episode, Ryder comes to Oxford for the first time and is given a word of advice by his older cousin. And that is to wear country clothes but eschew odd jackets and flannels in favor of suits."
Of course, Ryder's commentary on this is "I am not aware I ever consciously followed any of his advice" - indeed, he makes a virtue of having not done so...
I have seen “Brideshead Revisited” twice and have always been fascinated about the great job performed by the custom designer. Anthony Blanche seems to be the dandiest of them all and that suit his personality perfectly. I specially like the way Ryder’s father (John Gielgud) dresses. There is a scene he wears two shades of grey and a pair of spectators. Towards the end of the film, when Lord Marchmain (Laurence Olivier) returns to Brideshead, his very old full-brogue shoes are seen in close-up just before he gets off the car.
Breathtaking.
I would very much doubt that silk neck wraps were ever used in reality. They look really feminine and would not have been a fashion item at that time
One of the very few TV series or films where the visual product nearly matches its literary original.
"The House of Eliott", which is really about women's fashion of the 1920s, also features some absolutely gorgeous men's clothes. Sir Desmond Gillespie's wardrobe in particular stands out. His formal wear is jaw droppingly perfect.
Where does one find white piqué vests?
Blackwood, Paul Winston at Winston Tailors will make you a pique vest for a couple hundred dollars.
Wonderful miniseries and wardrobe!
I watched it when it first came out, many years (decades?) ago and didn't quite know what was about it that made me love it so much. I was lucky to catch a re transmission a couple of months ago and realized that besides its perfect manufacture, story, script, acting and art direction, the wardrobe was flawless and magnificent!
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