Every Man Needs a Dark Gray Suit

The dark gray solid is a staple of the suit wardrobe, and every man needs at least one for cool weather. That truth brought me to a San Francisco hotel suite this week for one of the world's quicker fittings. I was late, and thinking about how soon I might be able to get lunch. Thomas Mahon of English Cut was wondering whether he could have me out of there before his next appointment arrived. Three minutes after I arrived he was marking up the too-long trousers.


Now if a man has only one suit, it should probably be charcoal. Navy is a bit nicer for the evening but when a man is contemplating his first suit he is probably going to wear it most often in the daytime. On overcast fall and winter days, dark gray is more useful than navy, and a single breasted plain weave is the most useful of all.


Later in his career when that same man has six or more suits for a season, a second one of them should also be in a second shade of gray. Some would have one in a stripe of some kind but that particular pattern limits a suit to day wear. A single breasted solid and a double breasted complement each other better in my opinion.

This particular suit is in a 14 ounce hopsack from Smith Woolens. The jacket will be double breasted and one with some surface interest from the weave. That is, of course, once it is completed. Both coat and trousers need quite a bit of help, and were full of chalked hieroglyphics a few minutes after Thomas went to work. He was done in no time and I was on my way to assuage my hunger. The suit will hopefully be delivered in September.

Every man needs at least one dark gray suit.