So many old Apparel Arts and Esquire illustrations are set at one racetrack or another that it is probably no coincidence that America's adoption of less formal dress after 1970 paralleled the decline of horse racing and its replacement by NASCAR.
Racetracks were a venue for less formal suits of the kind in the illustration, with bigger patterns and more vivid colorings than their business dress siblings. It is a clothing role that is usually played today by the odd jacket, and the suiting alternative presents men with a bit of the dandy in them another way to complement their brown suede or spectator shoes.
Corduroy suits are probably the most accessible alternative to the odd jacket for cooler weather, along with lighter cottons for the warmer months. Neither is terribly expensive as these things go, and either looks good outside of the office. The key to suiting as an odd jacket alternative is that the coloration should be more casual than it is for a suit meant for the office. Think about rust-colored corduroy for one season and perhaps British khaki with its distinctive yellow tint for warmer weather.
Thinking of a new odd jacket? Consider a suit.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Consider a Suit
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9 comments:
An anecdote: Last night I read your mind and tested your proposal by wearing a taupe pin dot summer suit to a community awards event where our teenage son as to be a recipient. I was the only adult in the room wearing a suit; However I was praised by many other adults for "looking smart" for the occasion, even sockless in dark brown split toe loafers. Perhaps there is hope, even in the suburban Midwest...
Casual suits are, sadly, dying out. It's hard enough to get men to wear a suit to formal occasions, so getting them to wear a suit to a more casual event is almost impossible. It's a great shame, though, since more casual suits can often be the more fun ones since - as you say, you can play around with more interesting patterns and fabrics.
If I may be indulged in a bit of disagreement re: some details of this post while applauding its theme:
I'm not a nascar fan although I appreciate racing.
Racetracks were past their prime as early as the 50s, along with the boxing arena. As much as anything they were victims of television and before that, the cinema.
Remember, the 70s were still the era of leisure suits, smart if loud pants, and the height of the turtleneck or wide collar shirt and odd jacket.
IMO the left turn in modern society's apparel, post 1970 is traced directly to the boomers of the hippie and counter culture movements of the late 60s and early 70s, Their rejection of most things not just classic, but prior; along with their prole embrace of factory dress without any interest or aptitude for manual labor still reverberates well beyond mere aesthetics.
Even today, it's interesting to note those of that era who belatedly try to dress up and how consistent they are with our worst dressed lists.
I remind that Antongiovanni devotes a chunk of The Suit to discussing the phenomenon of the nobility usurping shitkicking garb as radical chic.
Two to button, ticket pocket, and cuffs. Don't recall seeing that before. . . .
Avoid Cord. You'll look like a social worker or some weirdo like that
Will-
were I to be considering a corduroy suit (maybe I am, maybe I'm not), what style would be your suggestion- two piece or three? Two button or three? Ticket-pocketed? Plain or lapelled-vest?
I was thinking two-button single breast coat with a traditional vest?
Being in sales (wine) I'm always looking to add interesting, informal wardrobe components. San Francisco and Berkeley are quite casual for the most part, but I dress for myself, not the client we work with.
Two piece, single breasted, three button rolled to the center, flap pockets with a ticket pocket.
You are most awesome, sir. Muchas Gracias. I owe you a bottle of wine someday.
Suit up, please!
I actually love three-piece cord suits. They are a display of dandified casualness rarely seen these days.
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