Several of America's better tailors offer bespoke shirts that are actually made in Geneva Custom Shirt's 32nd Street workroom in Manhattan. Men who live in or travel to New York (there were both in our party) and are more concerned with their appearance than the decor of their shirtmaker take the elevator a few floors above street level where owner Mike Athanasatos and his staff give shape to cotton fabrics.
Athanasatos measures each customer himself to begin the shirtmaking process. Once the cloth is selected, it is washed to minimize uneven shrinkage (pre-washing is a characteristic that distinguishes the better maker as their shirts may actually fit when delivered instead of requiring a couple of launderings to settle in). A cardboard pattern is made and the shirt pieces cut by hand. They are washed again before being sewn together, and then the completed shirt is washed once more. After hand ironing it is ready for the customer.
Among the ways a man can judge the quality of his shirt is whether the collar lies flat during wear without shirt stays to hold it in place. Unlike many custom shirtmakers, Geneva does not use prefabricated collars, and its collar points do not curl. I need say no more.