The photo shows a side view of a pair of 14 ounce/420 gram cotton trousers by Neapolitan maker Salvatore Ambrosi that were delivered this week after a month spent in the maze of two postal systems, U.S. Customs, the Easter holiday and the Icelandic ash cloud (there is a second package with the other part of the order still missing but we have little choice other than to trust it will arrive eventually).
No matter the style, the most important element in the fit of a trouser is that it has a clean line, falling unrippled to the bottoms unless interrupted intentionally by a break. And I have to give Salvatore credit as he has approached perfection in that regard without a fitting. True, he saw me in San Francisco last year before making the trousers in the photo but he never took a measurement, having copied and then improved upon a pair by another maker that I sent him.
Trousers with a near-perfect fall, worn with one of Michael Drake's single ply cashmere polos and Gaziano & Girling elastic sided slipons. A flannel shirt jacket completed the look.
Friday, May 21, 2010
The Fall of a Trouser
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5 comments:
These undeniably look great, although generally trousers without a single break tend to look too short at the back, in my opinion.
One way of dealing with this, that my tailors favour, is the cavalry cut, whereby the bottom of the trousers is very slightly curved so that they are longer at the back than at the front. I had my new dinner suit cut like this, and I think it looks great.
Will, would you say that your "break-less" fit is more or less classic? The cuffs are almost horizontal, which is quite different from the way that I see most men wear their trousers (including many of my own).
I hope you'll also report back on how wrinkled the trousers are (or aren't!) at the end of the day.
Nice looking trousers, Will. I would love him to come to Los Angeles. Do you know if he does or will? What weave is the cotton? A tad longer would be better but to each his own. Some Shrinking even when dry cleaning can occur, especially with Cotton.
good info mate
Great fit indeed. I have a pair just like those, only that, for me, the fit is far from perfect, because I won't even fit in. There's nothing to be done unless I lose weight. So, I would like to add that, though the clean line is one thing, the wearer of fine clothes must also take care to keep a consistent silhouette.
PS: If anyone wants to start a campaign to rid the world of Customs Offices, I wanna be president of the board...
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