In the making of a shoe, the leather is stretched over a last, a form that represents the customer's foot, either the foot of an individual for bespoke shoes, or the abstraction of a group of individuals in the case of ready to wear footwear.
Each bespoke shoe customer has at least one last (men who have ordered both laced and slip-on shoes usually have a separate last for each), and last storage for a bespoke maker like John Lobb Ltd. of London, whose last room is photographed, can literally come to occupy more space than the area given to making the shoes.
I was reminded that a shoe requires a last when I was contacted by a Philadelphia man who has been teaching himself to make shoes by hand. We discussed my becoming his first customer, and I am perfectly willing to pay to have him make a pair of shoes for me but I do not want to add measurement risk to what would be a transaction fraught with it. The man is classicly trained artist who has made a few pairs of shoes, which means he has experience at clicking, closing and finishing but has not spent years measuring shoes for a proper fit or learning last-making generally. And that stuff does take years.
So thinks I, I have lasts at three different makers and surely one of them will lend me my last for the good cause of helping out an artisan in training. And we will be finding that out over the coming weeks.
The issue of who owns the last is similar to that of who owns the pattern in bespoke tailoring. I am not an attorney but it is my understanding that the maker owns the last or pattern normally, however if the customer paid for it specifically then the customer has a case that he owns it in the absence of a contract that says otherwise. And goodness knows, I have never seen a contract associated with a bespoke shoe order. That said, I have known these gentlemen for years and talk of contracts should be unnecessary.
In any case, the emails are going out this week, and we will await the reaction. For the last truly must come first.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
The Last Must Come First
Photo: Chris Jackson/Getty Images
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9 comments:
John Lobb (London) has a house cleaning from time to time.
A friend bought shoes from them many years ago. Years passed, and Lobb wrote to him stating that his last would be destroyed unless he expressed an intent to place an order soon.
I would state clearly that it is your intent to return the last to them after this project is completed, maybe even explaining the project.
While they may consider the last proprietary, if they believe they will not lose business from a long established and consistent customer, they will be more likely to lend it out than if they think you are using their hard work to the benefit of another cordwainer.
"The last shall be first", indeed, has been Lobb's motto for a long time, as nicely told by Brian Dobbs in a book bearing that as its title.
For when it comes to good shoes, many be called, but few chosen.
If you have no joy, then I am sure that we would be happy to take your measurements for you and arrange for lasts to be made for the trainee maker.
As well as being bespoke shoemakers ourselves we teach handsewn shoemaking courses twice yearly in New York and London and are very keen to support those interested in pursuing the craft.
Let us know how you get on and email us cd@carreducker.com if you do need help.
Best wishes
Deborah
I very much hope they do lend you the lasts. It can only benefit the trade if more and more craftsmen can earn a decent living from such a trade. God forbid the craftsmen disappear...we'd have to settle Timberlands under our cuffed trousers for quality shoes.
I have more pairs of shoes than I care to admit, and some are more than 15 years old and look better than when they were new. Yet I'd like to add to my custom collection in the near future without facing another divorce!
Can't wait for the outcome.
@Deborah: I thought your shoes were all made by Tricker's?
In answer to rjmanbearpig, the vast majority of our shoes at carreducker are fully bespoke, handmade and hand stitched in London using traditional methods and hand held tools.
We do have a limited range or ready-to-wear shoes made in England.
I also hope the budding shoemaker in the States gets hold of your lasts and makes some bespoke shoes. No reason why the London makers should say no.
How are the lasts made? Is a mold of sorts of the foot taken? And for what reason does a customer need different lasts for slipons and laced shoes?
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