There are those who wear their pocket handkerchiefs to pick up a color in their necktie, but I think it looks less studied to complement either the shirt or some part of the pattern of the jacket. Those two criteria tend to favor the color white, which is usually present in one or the other. And since silk neckties should ideally have a drier complement for that same less studied purpose, the white linen handkerchief finds its way into worsted breast pockets more often than any other choice. Shinier silken squares should ideally be reserved for days when they can accompany a knit, grenadine, cashmere or other sheenless necktie.
Linen is better than the cotton alternative for a display handkerchief because it has enough body to remain upright in a pocket all day long (that same body makes it somewhat less effective for the other purpose to which handkerchiefs tend to be put until it has been washed enough to soften considerably, and by that time it is of course less effective for display).
Remaining upright is important, for the linen handkerchief should be worn with its points up. Forget about the tv fold, that refuge of the insecure. Displaying a handkerchief's points implies that it has been stuffed carelessly into the pocket, in keeping with the unstudied look that, to paraphrase the late dandy Douglas Fairbanks Jr., often takes considerable time to actually accomplish.
Points up please.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Points Up Please
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8 comments:
"...that refuge of the insecure." -- brilliant will just brilliant.
Agreed, on all points.
I like a white pocket square, too, but the women (and some of the men) in my life seem a bit let down when my breast pocket isn't colorfully stuffed. I can't dismiss the TV fold, though. Sometimes it has the sleekness that I'm looking for, a purposeful punctuation to the outfit.
(BTW, it was nice running into you on the street yesterday!)
Will,
I am with you, although lately, I go with the chiops. (sp?) Points up and truly looks stuffed in!
Jim
Will,
Your volunteer proofreader suggests changing Shiner to Shinier:
Shinier silken squares should...
Cheers,
LaoHu
Will, I must offer my very personal dissent.
I like cotton or linen, especially for a more formal and traditional look. But I prefer silk.
I used to wear cotton and linen as per your recommendation. I have a couple of boxes of them that I have accumulated over the years from Alan Flusser, Jay Kos, Turnbull & Asser, and others.
However, I have switched to silk for the simple reason that it is less bulky. This is especially so for wool challis pocket squares.
Want less bulk in your pocket? Wear silk.
I must disagree with regards to the cruel denigration of the TV fold and stand up for the many people who like to wear their handkerchief so.
Firstly, wearing a pocket square with the points up in this day and age looks as though one either is spending far too much time on one's appearance or one has far too much time to spend on one's appearance.
Secondly, the TV fold looks good, regardless of what Will says.
Thirdly, personally speaking, I find the points up pocket square too affected; the fact is, I have never seen one that looked anything other than calculated and elaborate, rather than something that might have arisen from casually stuffing the handkerchief into the pocket. In any case, given that the question of the function of a handkerchief does not apply for 99% of people, why should the form follow?
I've never really gone with a careless stuffing of a linen pocket square---I usually leave that for the silk. However, this post has encouraged me to try it. Next time I've got linen in my pocket, I'll be stuffing and not folding.
Erik
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