Apropos of nothing, my favorite shirtmaker Joe Hemrajani was talking about patterns the other day (he has dispensed with paper patterns in favor of a CAD system that cuts shirt pieces mechanically, improving consistency) and mentioned that so many customers are spending so much time at their computers that they have begun to stoop forward. To compensate for that, shoulders on his shirts are being cut to provide for a forward curve to the seam as it progresses towards the arms from the neck.
The top photo shows normal posture. The bottom shows what happens to that posture after hours of reaching towards a keyboard. And this forward slant to the shoulders creates wrinkles in the cloth, particularly near the armholes, that are prevented with properly cut cloth. It is the kind of measurement detail that requires an experienced eye, which is why I always recommend that men are measured by a professional and get those measurements perfected before they begin ordering shirts online.
Thanks to Joe for being kind enough to pose.
Friday, May 7, 2010
The Value of a Professional
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6 comments:
Joe is excellnt and his shirts are beautiful. I want to thank you Will for introducing me to him through your blog.
Will,
I go to Paris Custom, and he did the same thing for me with the shoulders. I apologize for the slight sidetrack, but I think it's very important for men to try to look good even underneath their clothes, and feel good. For those of us who suffer from sitting in front of a computer, I'd recommend scapular retractions and anything like that. (think of a reverse pushup, being upside down, pulling yourself up, shoulder retraction.
That should help a bit. Thanks for all of the great material here. Men should care about their condition and appearance all the way around, and I hope that this helps somoene.
Jim
Will,
On your recommendation I met with M. Kenny from MyTailor and ordered four shirts from the Mason Silver fabrics. The first arrived much more quickly than promised and the fit was nearly perfect. After three washings I returned to M. Kenny, who made minor tweaks in the pattern including adding a little space to the chest and tapering the arm holes a bit more. Funny thing, I thought that that arm holes were great and narrow already despite considerable space. I was too used to the Brooks Brothers billowing "slim" fit.
I expect to see the other three with the modified fit within the next month.
Having the moniker of your favorite shirt maker is quite the recommendation. While I can't afford bespoke in my entire wardrobe four shirts was well within my budget and I really appreciate being pointed in the right direction. I hope to order eight more in the fall.
Eugene
I've used MyTailor and they are superb. Highly recommended.
I love all of my shirts from Joe. I have about 10 or so and receive compliments regularly.
Does My Tailor use prefabricated shirt collars? Your piece on Geneva Custom Shirt's stated that many custom shirtmakers use prefabricated collars.
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