
Designer John Varvatos, the man responsible for the black cotton suit in the photograph, intended that it be worn in the evening. And that is the right idea even though I despise knitwear with zippered fronts. And the shoes! But before I go too far, let me return to the point I intended originally. Black is for evening.
There are two reasons why men should not wear black during the day, a statement intended to encompass black trousers and black socks though not black shoes. The first, and less important of them, is that wearing black goes against accepted custom. Since the demise of the frock coat a century ago black has been reserved for formal day wear, principally the morning coat. Which, we should note, is worn with gray trousers. But since only a relatively few people aside from the English court pay the slightest attention to what should be worn when any longer, we make this point only in passing.
The second and perhaps more generally acceptable anti-black rationale is that it simply looks bad on most men in the light of day. Save for those blessed with high contrast complexions, black washes color from the skin and gives the wearer that pallid look so beloved of the goth movement. Further, it washes out most accompanying colors, leaving the wearer little choice but to combine it with more black or other high contrast but overdone pairings. White shirt, red necktie and a black suit is the sign of a clothing noob, or a man parodying one.
So there are two reasons why black should not be worn before six o'clock. And, I should note, if one is not wearing black trousers during the day, one should not be wearing black socks either. To paraphrase Alan Flusser, who like every other respected clothing writer of the second half of the twentieth century advises against black daywear, black hose creates a void between trouser and shoe where there should be a continutation of the leg line.
Black is for evening.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Black is for Evening
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14 comments:
I usually make an exception in the case of a funeral, and wear black socks even if I'm wearing a charcoal suit.
The suit shown is horrid to begin with. Clogs with a suit in the evening is ok in Sweden if you are going Fjord watching at night, I suppose!
What of black neckties with grey suitings? A very easy and reliable combination for the workplace, I find.
Graham, I wear black neckties myself and should have mentioned them specifically.
Tony, it is an interesting suit, isn't it?
If only you were present at a terrible engagement party-lunch I attended Sunday.
Filled with Italian-Canadian men in poorly fitted black suits, black square-toed/pointy curly toe shoes, dark shirt/dark tie combos. I, in white-ish trousers, navy blazer with piping, white shirt, madras tie and brown loafers stuck out very much, and all others in attendance thought I looked out of place/incorrectly dressed! Ha! If only those men could dress themselves appropriately.
There needs to be a way to spread this message, Will! Black suits are not to be worn to every function!
Too many men seem to see black as a 'safe' colour, and buy a black suit as their first, and often only, suit which they then wear to everything. It's a terrible waste.
As a tuxedo enthusiast I couldn't agree more. Black suits worn during the day makes most men look like death warmed over.
Good day Will!
What´s your take on wearing a DB black overcoat over a grey suit during daytime? Wouldn´t that wash your complexion as well?
Alessandro
The issue with black is that most designers cannot get their hands on the right fabric. Black has to be pitch black, not some dark, yet faded grey...
Lanvin's black suits are the best, imvho.
http://davidikus.blogspot.com/
Will,
Black cotton pants paired with a light stone/light khaki cotton jacket in the summer. Is this a horrible idea?
I am not a lover of Black cotton. The suit design is ok. I think the Pick stitching olong the entire lapel and jacket make it a bit unique. I would prefer it in a Navy or other shade of blue. Varvatos quality is not the best in my opinion.
Dan,
I don't think anyone here would advise you to wear black cotton pants. How about navy, or, especially in the summer, a lighter shade of blue?
I love burgundy shoes with blue pants, but brown & tan work with certain shades of blue as well.
Horatio,
Thanks for your response. I ask because I have a cotton three-button jacket in light khaki (light stone) and am not sure what kind of pants I should wear with it, in both formal and casual situations. Any recommendations? Navy/blue is a good idea, and I have a pair of burgundy penny loafers I think would work well together with this.
Dan,
If you're a seersucker kind of guy, seersucker pants in navy, olive, and possibly even tan might work with your jacket. Obviously, this would be more casual. White ducks or linen pants in natural also seem possible.
To dress it up a bit, the right shade of gray should work. Just make sure it's a warm gray (i.e., with red or brown or gold undertones) and not a cool one (i.e., with blue or black undertones). I'd wear brown, not burgundy, shoes with this.
Somewhere in between would be brown. I'd stick with mid to dark shades, as pants and jackets that are too similar in hue create a visual discordance that can be jarring.
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