Don't forget about gray jackets for summer. In shades from pearl to mid-gray, it is an often overlooked color that complements tan and cream trousers. That is of course the reverse of the more usual summer pairing of a tan jacket with gray trousers, and it is one that is particularly appropriate for wear in city settings, with gray trousers in a complementary shade like the ones worn by the gentleman in the illustration.
Men who already have a reasonable complement of linen and cotton in their closets may want to look at gabardine for their gray jacketing. Tightly woven, gab is no longer considered a summer cloth but it is comfortable for cooler sunny days. Brown and gray gabardine jacketings are seen frequently in illustrations of classic men's clothing and either or both add another texture to an odd jacket wardrobe.
It deserves mention that classic warm weather jackets tended to be solid in color because that was the cloth that was available before the modernization of weaving after 1950 or thereabouts. The tweeds that made up the majority of patterned jackets were too warm-wearing for the season.
The availability of lightweight patterned cloth is much better today but I believe men should still look to solids for the majority of their June through September odd jacket wardrobes. Most of the patterns on the market look to me to be rehashes of cool weather cloth rather than something unique to the season.
And solid gray is a nice option.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Don't Forget About Gray
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11 comments:
Is there any way to ensure that this doesn't look like an orphaned suit jacket, but instead an odd jacket? It seems to me that unless you went with open patch pockets or other more casual features, you could look like you're wearing a light gray suit jacket with darker gray suit pants.
It's interesting that you mention that the more common pairing is tan jacket with gray trousers; I find that a darker or gray-tone odd jacket always makes a better match.
Also, my humble response to Brady would be that the key to an odd jacket and trousers pairing is using markedly different textures rather than the more commonly followed difference in colors. As an attorney, I avoid odd jackets at the office, but when I do wear an odd jacket on the weekend, I always make certain there is a clear difference in texture between jacket and pant.
The illustration is great but I doubt one could wear this look nowadays.
http://davidikus.blogspot.com/
From experience I can tell you that one can.
OUCH! as an attorney, you avoid wearing jackets!?
What is going on over there? Your're an attorney. I'd expect to see you with a jacket and tie, if not a really serious suit. And attorneys have the benefit of wearing interesting clothes that are less somber thant the grays and blues the bankers have to wear.
Well, at least you're decent on the weekends with your jackets.
Good point about the difference in textures, though.
CG,
I took CDC's comment to mean that at the office, he avoided jackets in favor of suits. Perhaps he will clarify for us.
As for avoiding the "mismatched suit parts" look, throwing cotton into the mix is another way to keep things clear. Though too casual for some offices, it works well with tropical-weight wool.
Great Post Will. I have been looking around for this exact pearl gray jacket. I haven't had time to think about a bespoke one but have seen a few OTR that may work. Unfortunately sizing is a problem. May have to wait til next year. I assumed CDC meant he wore suits not odd jackets and trousers in the office.
Flusser did a dove gray dupioni silk offering about eight years ago. I couldn't get my mind's eye around it 'till I saw one made up. It was stellar.
Good topic
I have a ramie/cotton light grey jacket with four patch pockets that I've displayed in my column once or twice. It has a floral lining that can be rolls into the lapels in 3 by 2 mode, which is fairly sassy but due to the colour of the lining, also doesn't announce itself
In response to David, I can, and may one day, replicate the illustration, although I'm more keen to pair the jacket with boldly coloured trousers in the style of the Duke and W. Clifford Klenk
CDC gives learned advice
All best,
B
Sometimes a light hearted comment just comes off all wrong. My fault, CDC.
Summer hit with a vengeance here in Italy. Most Italians avoid air-conditioning as if it were nuclear power. I've been sitting in meetings where no one is permitted to take their jacket off unless the senior or oldest gentleman in the room does so first. Bear in mind that the guys in charge are usually in their 70's. They're usually impeccably dressed and take great pleasure in seeing everyone younger than themselves suffer the unbearble stuffiness of a packed meeting.
I always feel like I've accomplished something of great importance when I survive one of these! Cheers.
Well done CG, I appreciate the need to survive arduous meetings, particularly as a younger employee myself.
I do indeed wear suits; sorry for any confusion.
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