Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Dressing Up the Navy Jacket


Usually we think of the navy odd jacket as something to pair with relatively informal striped neckties, or sometimes no necktie at all. But that is not the only use for the style. I have written before that it also dresses up nicely as warm weather guest attire at an afternoon wedding in the United States for one example, as well as for late day dress (cocktails, theater or dinner) generally.

Dressing up a navy jacket or blazer may require little more than wearing a more formal necktie, dress trousers, a pocket square and perhaps a shirt with a spread collar and turnback cuffs worn with links. After 6 PM, the shoes should be black of course. During the day, they can be white, brown, black or a combination of those that complement the trousers.

Speaking of the trousers, cream is my personal choice these days but the blazer is not limited to a single style or color. Light gray, mid-gray and shades of tan usually work well, and there are those who wear navy jackets with various shades of denim. That may be OK under certain circumstances but few of us would call that dressing up.

Once the trousers have been chosen, I like the trick of mating them with a discreetly patterned necktie whose ground is in the same family of colors. So, couple light gray trousers with neckties that have a silver ground like the navy dotted three-fold in the photo. Mix cream trousers with neckties that have a lot of white in them, or tan with tan. Try it, the next time you want to dress up a navy jacket.

8 comments:

The Sluice Box said...

I'm curious what your thoughts are about wearing cream trousers after 6:00 p.m.? You recommend wearing black shoes after 6, so I'm assuming that means no cream pants past that hour?

Aaron

Will said...

Aaron,

Black shoes look fine with a navy blazer and cream trousers. I've posted a couple of illustrations in the past. The one below shows spectators but you will get the idea.

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2009/04/case-for-black-and-white-spectators.html

David said...

What's the origin of the black-only after 6pm shoe rule? Most people I know don't return home from work until later in the evening. Could it be that this rule is archaic, particularly in warmer months when the sun sets at 9pm? Perhaps the modern take of this rule is, black-only shoes after sunset? What do you all think? Thanks in advance.

esm said...

A funny thing...I have that exact necktie, and have worn it to a summer wedding to boot. I wonder where that idea came from? Ha!

Franklin said...

Up until now, I thought of my navy blazer with brass buttons as an odd jacket. And since I was under the impression that odd jackets can only be worn with brown shoes, it didn't occur to me to wear it at night. But now I have another doubt... is it appropiate to wear black shoes with an odd jacket that is charcoal with a black check in the evening? I hope you have the time to clear this up for me, Will. I read your blog daily and I enjoy it very much.

Will said...

Franklin, while a navy blazer is fine after six, it is an exception to the rule about not wearing odd jackets.

JC said...

I didn't know that. Guess I need a blazer.

Will said...

David, the black shoes after 6pm rule goes back to the 20th century "rules" of English aristocratic dress. They remain the only rules we have.

 
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