
Summer is when the linen suit comes into its own and I must say that the stuff is considerably more wearable than it is usually given credit for. Yes, it rumples a bit over the course of a day, but much less so than cotton and people do not seem to object to the wrinkled seersucker suits seen in offices across the American South. And linen has a couple of advantages over the alternatives.
Two of the better things about linen are that it is soft, much more comfortably soft than the high twist cloths or mohairs of my acquaintance, and handles perspiration well. Where cotton soaks through and can make the wearer look like he has recently emerged from a bathing pool, linen wicks moisture away quickly enough so that the wearer is more likely to look like he is accustomed to the tropics. This is a good thing.
Linen in fact is so good for the season that a man should have as much of it as he can justify. Two linen suits are about the right number if they are to be worn principally on weekends and holidays but men of leisure may have more. And if one is to have two, so to speak, I like mustard, like the suit in the photo, as well as mid-blue. Cream of course is a classic but it tends to show dirt more than the other hues, and a suit that's at the cleaners does no-one but the cleaner any good.
Irish linen of appropriate weight (14 ounces or 420 grams) is available from both Holland & Sherry and Scabal among others. That may seem a bit heavy the first time the uninitiated put it on, but the weight is unnoticed after a minute or two. Have it buggy or quarter lined, with patch pockets. Of course, a suit begun now will be ready after the season is over unless one lives in the Antipodes, but taking winter delivery of a linen suit is probably justification enough for a winter cruise to the tropics or a quick cigar run to Havana. Metaphorically speaking of course.
But, back to today. It is linen time.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Linen Time
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8 comments:
Well done.
Apologies for my ignorance, but what is "buggy cut"? Is there some middle ground between quarter lined and half lined?
great look great shoes too
i put you on my blog
the world
Buggy lined is a term for self-lined. The suit is made with a layer of the same cloth used on the exterior covering the chest and sides instead of silk or Bemberg.
Buggy lining is a little heavier than Bemberg but the theory is that the suiting cloth allows more air circulation. I have never noticed a difference.
A wonderful outfit.
I believe this is the first time I've seen you repeat a tie in a photo. An impressive feat, and a handsome one to choose, really.
Will,
Love your blog, but sometimes I think you are caught in a time warp to the 1930's. I'm born and raised in the South and can count on the fingers of one hand the number of seersucker suits I have seen worn. They make a appearance at church during Easter services and you rarely see them worn buy some of our more eccentric attorneys
.....a great look Will. I've got a few lightweight suits in cotton gaberdine, linen and very lightweight wools and they are generally stone to mid brown but I'm becoming converted to dark brown linen ever since I saw guy in such a get up the other day....it looks great and heightens the coolness effect.....and apropos Charles I was in NYC the other day and saw several guys wearing searsucker suits so they are by no means obsolete although no doubt a minority taste as I suspect they always have been. They still have them on the racks at Brooks and J. Press so there must be a market even if small.
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