The other day was the first time out for this jacket, a lightweight experiment in cotton and silk that somehow looks too small.
At first I thought the problem was the shoulders, then the body length, and then the sleeves. But each of them seems to be the same dimension as on another jacket from the same tailor that fits.
What do you think is wrong?
Friday, June 4, 2010
Too Small
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39 comments:
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Will, the jacket looks about an inch or so too short.
Agreed, it looks off. I would vote for the shoulders being to narrow from sleeve head to sleeve head resulting in the shoulder and sleeves attempting to make up the difference and thereby looking too full in the shoulder area and too short in arm length. The overall effect is that the whole top of the jacket looks narrow, creating a slight pyramid effect. Looking forward to hearing your opinion, as well as that of others.
I am no expert but it appears to me it might have something to do with the lapel and collar being too wide. The buttoning might also be a bit too high. It could also be the combination of these two factors.
Left sleeve looks shorter than the right to me
In this color, the buttons and pockets look too high giving it a 'high water' look.
Would be interesting to have a comparison photo against the other coat - might give away what seems wrong.
The right lapel appears to be wider than the left, I think that is throwing my eye off the most. I think giving the sleeves a little more length mostly the right one will also help.
Nothing looks wrong at all in terms of size. I am not sure the cut is best suited to this kind of fabric, though. Have you try to put the two jackets seam to seam. Often when you copy a jacket, you need to allow a few millimeters here and there for seams.
http://davidikus.blogspot.com/
Jacket looks perfect. Just a bot shorter than you usually wear. But for a casual sportcoat, I think it fits great. If anything, perhaps your shirt sleeve is just too long!
The top half is perfect. It is hard to tell due to the angle of the photograph, but it looks like the bottom half is too constricting, as if there is no vent in the rear.
It looks fine. Quarters open as much on the other jacket? Maybe you're concerned the tie is overwhelming the jacket? Change the tie, and show a sliver of a lighter ps. Maybe one of your gingham ties, or lilac madras or lilac dot.
Looks good to me.
It looks fine to me.
Your right shoulder is back in the photo, which doesn't allow a complete review, however, I don't think there's much problem, if at all. I will say, though, if it feels physically off, then it probably is.
I don't think the jacket length is off, although a rear view would help. The sleeves show a little more cuff than you normally do, but I wouldn't say it's outside of the acceptable amount.
Looking at it as a whole I don't see it as too small. I think the button stance is a little too high. It throws off the balance.
Will, I agree with MCCVI: the whole top of the jacket looks narrow depending on small shoulders that ,as they go up behind the collar too much, seem to suck in the sleeve heads and create a sort of pyramid effect. The fabric looks superb and for this reason You should ask Your tailor to fix this imperfection.
Angelo
The sleeves appear a little short and the buttoned button looks a little strained.
I would agree it looks too short, but if you measured it then that might not be the issue. Perhaps, it's the trousers and their color? Did you try it against cream colored trousers?
I agree with MCCVI and Angelo. When I first looked at the coat in a photo I thought the problem was the shoulders but when I measured they were the same as my other jackets from him. The difference this time is that the tailor decided without to make a shirtsleeve shoulder, and I believe that needs to be extended a quarter inch (maybe even a half) on each side. The seam is not as large as a conventional seam.
Looks good, but a bit trimmer than you normally wear.
I find the pockets, button stance and gorge all a bit higher than I might wish. Rather than the lapel being too wide, I think it might be slightly narrower at the tip of the blade. A slightly lower button stance will, of course, elongate the lapel making it look narrower and provide better balance. The chest also looks as if it could be a tad fuller, and the shoulder might be just a bit broader.
I also definitely agree that different fabric will tailor differently to the same measures and fit differently on us. And as we mature, we change our shape slightly as well, even if our weight and measurements such as waist and chest perhaps remain the same.
Looks good, would try a different tie though.
Not a thing. Looks good, as a matter of fact, that's how all my jackets fit. But if you believe it is too small, "to each his own".
Perhaps it's just a bit stiff, as cotton sometimes is. Allow it to settle and check again after a few wears.
I believe it's just an optical illusion. This colour blue we associate with large vistas of sky. So with anything self-contained in this colour, our brains have difficulty in interpreting correctly.
If this was in dark blue I don't believe you would harbour these doubts. Try photoshopping it to check.
The waist button is too high.
2 things I can see:
1 You have a drop right shoulder and the sleeve length has been finished to accomodate this making the sleeve appear fractionally too short on your left. i would have this sleeve lengthened if possible.
2. The break is a little high as is the pocket, A short fit Coat is great as far as finished length goes but I think that the pocket height and break has been adjusted too much.
Holy cow! Twenty-five comments already?
Anyhoo, the jacket seems to have the narrower silhouette that's popular nowadays. The quarters are set apart quite a bit--could that be it? The shoulders might be too narrow, which, with the open quarters, would account for the pyramid effect.
Does it feel tight in the waist? It looks like it might be.
Though the fit might not be what you want, I love the color, material, and buttons, though I think the center button could be a wee lower.
I tend to wear my jackets precisely as Will does in the photo. Frankly, I don't think it looks too small. In fact, I think it looks trim but good. My father--with whom I argue with on a weekly basis about this issue--would say that the waist is too snug as evidenced by the spread at the bottom of the jacket. Rather than overlapping, the coat spreads out to reveal one's belt. That's not an issue of fit but one of cut. In my opinion it looks good. It's just not the drape-type cut that Will tends to favor.
Great look.Not much wrong cept that the left hand sleeve looks too short. But this is a great look one of your best.The jacket is not too short
I think that your first and follow-up reactions are correct: The problem emanates from the shoulders. At least as viewed in the photograph, the proportions of the coat are slightly off. The left side seems slightly larger than the right--or the right is more constricted than the left. This is something, I think, that begins at the center seam.It also is possible that there is a problem with either the cut or the attachment of the collar.Whatever the problem, it's both real and subtle.
The fit of the blazer looks great. As many other people have commented, you're just not accustomed to the shorter jacket length...but it works.
Love it. You just need to break it in a bit since the shoulders are narrower. But I think it is a great fit.
Echoing Horatio and others, mine is a bit late:
Hate to say this Will, but I think this one really slims you. Its one of the better fits, IMHO. It takes off about five to ten pounds and as many years. You're just not used to it.
Looks fine -- overall length, sleeve length, set of the buttons, lapel width, etc. All I see is the back of the collar riding much too high and swallowing up the back of your shirt collar. The way you are standing? A problem with the fit of the back of the jacket? Also, you look uncomfortable in the jacket. Maybe that has something to do with the way the whole effect seems "off." If you don't feel right in something, for whatever reason, it can show. Other possibility -- though hard to tell from photo -- is that the armholes look high, perhaps grabbing you there(?) However, you do point our that measurements match those of another fine-fitting jacket from the same tailor.
For me, it's hard to tell if something's too small if he isn't moving around in it. With him just standing there, it looks fine. Have him reach over for coffee and you might see the shoulder bunch up, his sleeve go way back and the back tighten a bit too much. It should just seem uncomfortable.
I think a jacket of this colour and style needs a more relaxed cut, looser at the shoulders and armholes, just a bit more playful.
I know that sounds like anathema to a man who invests in tailoring but for light summer jackets I don't think the heavily tailored look works. To me, that's what's wrong here.
The jacket is certainly not too short. It appears that you carry your left shoulder higher than the right. Do you carry a bag over that shoulder? The higher shoulder makes the sleeve on the left side look shorter even though it might not be shorter.
Your tailor could compensate for this in the jacket if you think it looks odd.
There is a wrinkle on the right shoulder. Is the drape the same on this jacket as you others? Is there any twist in the attachment of that sleeve?
I love the jacket but you have to feel comfortable with it.
NOTHING IS WRONG WITH IT YOU'RE DRIVING YOURSELF CRAZY FOR NO REASON.
trust me I do this for a living
I think the Jacket is fine, its the colour of your trousers which is the issue.
The heavier, dark grey of the trousers seems to expand outwards over the light blue sheen of the jacket. Whilst this emphasises the length of you legs it shortens the body and creates the optical illusion of a shrinking jacket.
My first suggestion would be trousers in a lighter colour and weight, i.e. white or cream linens, possibly with a silk mix to continue the silk sheen of the jacket.
If you have a pair that are "worn in", the crumpliness will break up the straight outline of your legs and make your smoother body seem longer by comparison.
Another possibility is that a darker shirt would add more weight to your top half and balance out the trousers. The two main shirt ideas that come to mind to me are a navy mini ginham check, or a shirt with navy bengal stripes w/ white collar and cuffs - maybe even a cut-away collar.
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