A hat wearing man probably wants three or four dressy straws in his closet for summer. That is fewer than he might feel necessary for cool weather, but then there are more hat colors in common usage during that latter time of year. For the sunshine he need consider principally shades ranging from the Montecristi Panama's ivory to the yellow tan of the Milan braid.
That said, men should not overlook the relatively inexpensive boater. London's Lock & Co. has one of lacquered plaited straw for a comparatively affordable £115.00 (about $175) and, despite the tradition of a century ago when men would throw theirs away at the end of each season, mine has given me good service for at least five years on golf courses as well as city streets without showing any stress.
Worn with a tropical wool suit in the world's most subtle white pindot, a linen shirt with a small houndstooth pattern, a linen necktie, linen pocket square and suede shoes. The tie looks too wide to my eyes these days but changing that will have to wait for spring.
Monday, July 5, 2010
Do Not Overlook the Boater
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9 comments:
Will, I like this a lot, I feel a little self conscious in mine, did you have to size down in the boater, my usual 7 1/2 was way too big but the lovely chaps at 'Bates' on Jermyn street gave me some pads to sort it out. I'll try mine out again today! thanks for the inspiration.
-T
Also, If you don't want the tie anymore I'll happily provide a home for it!
That is a fantastic looking ensemble. What are the details on the suit?
Only the cane is missing Will. It suits you, looks very good but has alas passed into the environs of comedy or the theatrical. I have one and occasionally wear it on occasions when a bit of levity is in order like private garden parties but that's about the only time when you're not going to be thought very eccentric. On another thread I did a bit of reflecting on when garments move over into the no no category and it's a fine line that varies from society to society. Take the silk hat for example, no one is ever going to wear one in the states on even the most formal of occasions like presidential inaugurations but yet they are common in the UK on special occasions like morning dress weddings, Ascot, Buckingham Palace garden parties, or the Derby. Boaters or skimmers are very common at the Henley regatta in England and a few other rowing orientated events but that's it. The Ascot has gone imho for much the same reason that boaters and sock suspenders have....they look faintly ridiculous. The bowtie however survives because although it has comic overtones it still looks very elegant and quite masculine and there are enough positive vibes surrounding it (FDR, university professors, supreme court justices) to overcome any negative ones. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this whole topic Will or indeed those of others.
My good Will,
Bless, bless the boater.
For its good humor. For its enduring optimism. For its sartorial song of carefree summers and youthful romances.
Accordingly, I remain proud to be a boater man, and those in my set regularly repair--with boaters--to the Polo Lounge and Beverly Wilshire terrace.
For in our luxe and temperate paradise, the boater is a symbol of reverence for old Hollywood, my provenance and tradition.
Which, of course, reminds me of former stepmother Elizabeth (yes, storied Liz) after she'd cashiered dad and the crooner in favor of that ham from Wales.
Came a particularly humid August and the lovebirds were rehearsing--Kama Sutra-style--at the Gritti Palace hotel in Venice. Perspiration ruled, and ex-stepmom was indulging her particular kink: she adored parading grand suites with nothing on but a hat.
This certain afternoon she wore a boater.
The ham had sent for ice--he used it for everything from chilling hot baths to facials--and Lizzie answered the door with her pristine form, a smile and that boater.
The server choked, gasped and dropped a soup tureen bulging with cubes.
Elizabeth stood her ground, placed an elegant hand on creamy hip and
said simply, "Gene Kelly was so right...a straw hat always knocks them dead."
Now that's a story I couldn't beat with a stick! I believe my perspective on the boater is forever changed.
I like the look very much.
I must agree in part with the dissenters in that it may be a bit costumey and out of step with the dress-down and casual cancer. I often get doubletakes when I wear a conventional Optimo style or fedora style straw hat.
It is very, very rare to see a boater in NYC. There used to be an Assistant Attorney General who wore one.
Will, is the boater warmer than the other straw hats?
My impression is that it is based upon its thickness and often lacquered finish.
What has been your experience.
I don't find it warmer Mark. It does weigh a bit more though.
Hmm. A straw boater with a dressy suit. It looks good, there's no doubt of that, but I'm still of the opinion that the boater is almost impossible to wear without looking costumey. I say "almost" because you have managed to pull it off: you don't look like you're on your way to a theme party or a performance by your barbershop quartet.
Well done!
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